67m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fine line with an impressive first pitch that takes time to dry. Start at the narrow corner/groove to the left of Hell's Groove.
1) 5a, 32m. Climb the corner/groove past an overhang near its top to a ledge and belay.
2) 5a, 30m. Move up the corner to a slab. Climb it and then a crack above to a step left to another slab. Traverse rightwards to a short wall that leads to a grassy ledge and belay.
3) 4c, 12m. Follow the corner-crack to ledges and the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Classic route, and the only Whillans route on the East Buttress. Some speculate that the reason it's so undeservedly unpopular is due to it famously spitting the hard man off it!

1. 30m(5a)An immense groove which unfortunately suffers badly from seepage. If this is the case then back and footing is difficult to execute.
2. 28m(5a) Nice contrasting delicate climbing.
3. 9m(4c) Short, powerful and enjoyable.

Don Whillans 05/Jun/1955.


Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS , UK Holiday Plans , Turbo-Punter's Tradification


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Guidebooks for Scafell East Buttress

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 6
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set
Route of Interest
Great Central Route

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Dow Crag)

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