UKC

18m. The abseil boulder described in the guide disappeared when the buttress it was sitting on fell down. A 60m rope on the stake at the top of the descent gulley will reach to the bottom of the route, but the stretch is alarming.

FA. S.Titt, J.Yaldren 17/Aug/2000.

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Orange Spot Swanage

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Marti999 31 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The line is hard to work out from guide description, however the rock is excellent, that rare pocketed walls you get a Swanage. Can be hard to protect (tricam micro cams Useful). The exit corner is loose and dirt once the climbing is done. Use ab rope that can be rebelayed on good nuts in quarry wall above. 60m from stack reaches boulder at base.
βeta?
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βeta: The line is hard to work out from guide description, however the rock is excellent, that rare pocketed walls you get a Swanage. Can be hard to protect (tricam micro cams Useful). The exit corner is loose and dirt once the climbing is done. Use ab rope that can be rebelayed on good nuts in quarry wall above. 60m from stack reaches boulder at base.

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Tensor II

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Guillemot Ledge)

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