35m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One of the very best VSs at Swanage. Both technical and sustained, but furnished with good protection. Start at a raised ledge below a corner next to a massive boulder.
1) 4c, 20m. Climb the corner until level with an overhang on the left. Traverse beneath this and pull up the wall on good holds to a good ledge and huge flake belay.
2) 5a, 15m. Stand on the flake, then either climb with difficulty direct to the next wide break, or at about the same difficulty, step left and move up to the break. Climb past the overhang above on its left, and finish up the corner above. © Rockfax

FA. B.Snell, W.Lyons 8.12.73 08/Dec/1973

Ticklists: 100 More Classic British VS Climbs, Swanage A-Z, West Country Climbs, Orange Spot Swanage, SW Climbs - Swanage, The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist.


ClimberDateStyle
montymoo 23/Apr 2nd
Gareth 23/Apr AltLd O/S

Lorraine P1 me P2

Bob M 16/Apr AltLd
Longsufferingropeholder 14/Apr AltLd
with C May
Sam Mills 14/Apr Lead
with Ben Simons, Ellie Leigh
Oliver Smaje 14/Apr 2nd O/S
with Beth
C May 14/Apr AltLd O/S

Lead P1

with Tim
Conor Nally 14/Apr Lead
with Rosh
sam_craddock 09/Apr Lead
Owen Davies 09/Apr 2nd O/S
richsmithinbristol 07/Apr AltLd O/S

Pitch 2

Norman_P_W 02/Apr AltLd rpt
Carl 19/Mar AltLd rpt

Back to lead the 5a pitch this time!

lukevf 19/Mar AltLd O/S
with CarlWH
w-watson 11/Mar Lead O/S
J.E.Spencer 11/Mar 2nd
mattprince 05/Feb AltLd rpt

Wet 1st pitch which made my lead interesting. 2nd pitch not as hard as I remeber from original ascent in 2014

with Tim Annetts, Will Graham
Adam Hill 04/Feb AltLd
with Simon
Hidden ??/2017 2nd O/S
Francois R 29/Oct/16 2nd

In 1 pitch

with Jason
jimbonfire 23/Oct/16 Lead
with TT
Buccaneerbilly 22/Oct/16 AltLd

Was going great guns right up to the roof then I went in and out more times than the hokey cokey trying to get good cam placements, placed cams went passed the roof and then went round the corner and fell off. Made it to the belay and then Dave cruised the second pitch!

mikehenesy 22/Oct/16 AltLd
with Willy
dave o 21/Oct/16 AltLd
with James R
Kirill 08/Oct/16 AltLd
with EeFu
EeFu 08/Oct/16 AltLd

Lead P1

Gracieclimbs 02/Oct/16 2nd

Had an epic on this one, was beyond my grade really, got stuck for about 20 minutes below the ledge as was scared of falling and swinging out but got through it eventually.

Hidden 25/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Sep/16 Lead O/S
The Screaming Finn 17/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
with CarlWH
Carl 17/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Led the first pitch, what a fantastic route! Took me a while to figure out how to traverse below the roof.

patb82 08/Sep/16 2nd dog
with Edd
mattx1123 29/Aug/16 Lead O/S

lack of gear on the overhang! note suncream not useful...

Callum Smith 28/Aug/16 AltLd

A good soaking from the sea woke us up. A worth while, if greasy outing.

Hidden 28/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Pete_Frost 27/Aug/16 AltLd rpt

Led P2 - very technical move on the slab - until you realise there's a big jug at the break. The undercling on Blake's pitch was soaking and that made it way harder than it should have been for him.

with Blake
bsparky 14/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with Simon Middleton
Chris Sansum 13/Aug/16 2nd rpt
with Steve Collard
riff156 13/Aug/16 Lead O/S
matteo_8 12/Aug/16 2nd
Hidden 07/Aug/16 2nd
Hidden 07/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Jezzamiah 06/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Ran out the last bit of P1 under the greasy roof - felt like it was safer to climb on; need to keep an eye on length of runouts for committed sections and remember double runners etc. if appropriate.

with Paul Miller
pauldemiller 06/Aug/16 AltLd
with Jeremy Donaldson
Hidden ?/Aug/16 Lead
ig248 24/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
with Berta Lopez
Horton 23/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch. Found it tricky traversing the roof and trickier still escaping with sweaty hands and the prospect of swinging back in the corner but held on. Second pitch was fun (not sure there was a 5a move there, though?)

TomRiddelsdell 23/Jul/16 AltLd
Pero 19/Jul/16 AltLd

Led P1

JoeCoxson 10/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

P2. Took longer than it should have done to get through the 5a section as my fingers really didn't fit into a pretty crucial pocket. Wendy obviously had no issues to my disgust.

Wendy Watthews 10/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Lead p1 Joe p2

with joe c
Dale Finnie 09/Jul/16 AltLd
nigel bassam 02/Jul/16 AltLd
with Nick
joshchalke 19/Jun/16 2nd O/S
with bradfry
Denoir 18/Jun/16 AltLd
tsyrett 14/May/16 AltLd O/S

Benny 1st pitch. 2nd pitch for me

Hidden 08/May/16 AltLd O/S
naylers 01/May/16 2nd
andycash 01/May/16 Lead O/S
with Steve Nayler
robgixer 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Jus 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Chris Sansum 17/Apr/16 AltLd O/S

Chris P1, Truan P2

with Truan Willis, Ruth White
mjeffery 12/Apr/16 AltLd O/S
with Rob
Bernie L 25/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 2

Hidden 25/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
Bob M 23/Mar/16 AltLd
with Harry Cripps
cdpuk 12/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

Led p2.

bencoope 24/Feb/16 2nd
cameron_hall 10/Jan/16 Lead O/S

In one pitch.

with Svet Babchuk
Hidden ??/2016 Lead rpt
Darron ??/2016 -
clmacdonald 04/Oct/15 2nd
martinov 04/Oct/15 2nd O/S

Lucho and Romina

tskelhon 04/Oct/15 Lead
DavidFarrow 20/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
with Marianne Khoo
mariannekhoo 19/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Led P1

with Dave Farrow
Mike Weatherill 11/Sep/15 Lead
dom94 08/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Eloise
Eloise_SW 08/Sep/15 2nd
with Dom
Guy Lowndes 21/Aug/15 AltLd
with Mark Deketelaere
Hidden 17/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
petegunn 17/Aug/15 AltLd
with Davina
SenzuBean 16/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Superb climb. Very easy line to follow, and very taxing doing the traverse under the overhang. The second pitch was not as hard as the first we think - even though the guidebook said the second pitch was 5a and the first 4c. Was very happy I decided to have my cams with me, as I actually managed to place one on P2 :)

with Barry
BarrySW19 16/Aug/15 2nd O/S

Strange that the 2nd pitch has the higher grade - it seems pretty simple - the move under the roof before the belay is the crux for me.

with Jon
bryan61 01/Aug/15 2nd O/S

did it in 1 pitch

with m meaney
badgerjockey 19/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Rich/Kuang
mdolan 15/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Lead first. Zack lead Second

jon_gill1 05/Jul/15 Lead rpt

in one pitch,felt so tired and found it hard to keep pulling through the second pitch!

Hidden 04/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Monkey_Alan 04/Jul/15 AltLd rpt
alice270 ?/Jul/15 2nd

Andrea Lead, then Pina then me. Hard to start.

Paula Ryan ?/Jul/15 2nd
James1483 ?/Jul/15 2nd
with Louise
Hidden ?/Jul/15 Lead
Jan.Hrb 27/Jun/15 AltLd
with Ales
Hidden 14/Jun/15 2nd
jon_gill1 14/Jun/15 Lead O/S

me P1 and JR P2

with nick loc, john ripley
ripper 14/Jun/15 Lead

first visit to Guillemot Ledge, what a great spot

Robs_Uren 13/Jun/15 AltLd rpt
mikespooner 13/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Caitlin 13/Jun/15 2nd
with Princess
Steve954 06/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Paul Archer
Joris.Roulleau 23/May/15 Lead O/S
FlavioL1989 09/May/15 2nd O/S
Adam Hill 01/May/15 2nd

Slipped off the crux at the start of the second pitch, poor footwork.

with Simon
Russell Lovett 24/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

Seconded pitch 1, lead pitch 2.

with Tim Freeman
LJC 23/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

p2

Trace 19/Apr/15 2nd
with Max
Hidden 15/Apr/15 AltLd rpt
mishabruml 15/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Baking hot day. I led p1, dave p2. Bit scary coming under the roof, everything was v greasy

with David Gainor
jungle 21/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Paul Mcarthy
duncan 28/Dec/14 2nd
with Dani Wolf
kp64zl ?/Nov/14 AltLd O/S

I led 2nd pitch. Took a while to work out the move

mike lawrence? 02/Oct/14 AltLd
with Metal
Mike Turner 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
jasonpm 27/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Simon Hockin
Different Steve 27/Sep/14 2nd
Stanners 24/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

a great little adventure to finish off the trip. Heavy rain as we abbed down, but then cleared up into gorgous sunshine for my top pitch. Fortune favours the brave!

Anna Maykova 20/Sep/14 2nd
with Ian
Ian MK 20/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Anna
hotfeet 19/Sep/14 Lead dog

The sun was setting - as time was of the essence I used a sling to aid the first move up the start of the second pitch.

stevoland 16/Sep/14 Lead O/S
jacobjlloyd 13/Sep/14 2nd rpt
with Peach
topsyturvy 12/Sep/14 Lead

Done before. Undercling pitch wet and slippery.

with Mike P
clarendon 12/Sep/14 2nd
with Tris
jing 07/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Vince led two pitches as one at lightning speed. I seconded with joy. Felt comfortable on both 4c and 5a pitches so very glad. Great route that's worth every star!

with Vince
garywong 06/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

P2

DavidFarrow 06/Sep/14 AltLd
Sam4242 29/Aug/14 Lead O/S
joeallen28 29/Aug/14 Lead dnf

Just couldn't make the exit from under the roof. 4 huge whippers. Sam led no dramas, i ended up prussiking up the rope to the belay! Shocker. Will be back for this one.

with Sam4242
mattprince 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Good route, solid VS

with Will Graham
WillGraham1 16/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/14 Lead
Bob M 31/Jul/14 Lead
musgravet 29/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Alison Hodkin
paultaylor 28/Jul/14 AltLd rpt
with Matt Roberts
sonic46 15/Jul/14 AltLd

Lead first pitch

Monkey_Alan 05/Jul/14 AltLd rpt
with James Bridger
Norman_P_W 05/Jul/14 2nd
with Max S
clipskipper 02/Jul/14 2nd rpt
with Sonia Robins
Robin Woodward ?/Jul/14 AltLd

A nice straightforward climb. Took the left line above the flake belay to avoid falling on the belayer.

Monkey_Alan 19/Jun/14 AltLd rpt
Jeromecooper 16/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Swinging lead. I led P2, Ollie P1.

with Oliver Hopper
lem 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S

FC had a little wibble on P1 after going off route onto the HVS and then trying to back climb. After that he wasn't up for the quite committing 4c move over the overhang so I led P1 with the first 3 bits of gear pre-placed. The 5a moves of P2 were fun and also quite bold for the grade. I'm glad I found a secret hold that was unchalked and so possibly missed by many! Definitely at the top end of VS but so deserving of it's 3 stars. Bravo!

Pero 31/May/14 AltLd

Led P2

Bryan M 30/May/14 AltLd
Hidden 26/May/14 AltLd O/S
alan rosier 26/May/14 AltLd O/S

P2.

Pintsize 25/May/14 AltLd O/S

Led second pitch, hardest section is definitely coming up from the belay but it was great fun (stepped left)

CurlyStevo 25/May/14 AltLd

I did pitch 1 - didn't fancy the hvs! Pitch 2 goes more reasonably if you step left on to the slab and do a long reach up with the left hand from the horizontal holds at a similar level to the nut / peg. It is a bit smeary though. However the moves are easier and the fall out zone safer than the more direct method.

with Mick Ward
will_benfold 25/May/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1

Dave Thompson 23/May/14 AltLd O/S
with Steve Melvin
Hidden 19/May/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 18/May/14 Lead rpt
Headjamm 17/May/14 2nd
with Geoffers
Geoffers 17/May/14 Lead rpt

Lead P1 and P2

with Lauren
anthonydouglas 16/May/14 AltLd O/S

Lead P2 (5a)

with Joe Fraser
Monkey_Alan 14/May/14 AltLd rpt

Led P1.

Julian Prieto 14/May/14 AltLd rpt

Led P2

bede.west 11/May/14 AltLd O/S
Tom Livingstone 07/May/14 AltLd rpt
Alex Hallam 07/May/14 AltLd O/S
Pete Scott 04/May/14 AltLd

p2 with jimbob then p1 with tom at a later date

with Jimbo
Hidden 04/May/14 AltLd O/S
Matt77 04/May/14 Lead O/S

I led the top pitch. Brilliant route.

with Shane
islandlynx ?/May/14 AltLd O/S

lead pitch 1. easy up to the roof then a 4c move from roof to belay stance. great route

annak 13/Apr/14 AltLd dog
Big Lee 13/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2. The moves off the block at the start of the second pitch felt hard and commiting. Both pitches excellent.

Peter Lovell 12/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
mike lawrence? 11/Apr/14 Lead
with Paul
runwildjohn 09/Apr/14 2nd
stonemikey 09/Apr/14 Lead
Ciderslider 04/Apr/14 Lead O/S

What a great route - not too bad at all - loads of gear and holds under the overhang - didn't notice any wobble on the belay flake - the rusty old peg was just solid enough to clip and a small superlight rock in the pocket - just enough to give you confidence. to make the move across the slab. Finished off with a mini dyno and an Ondra power scream for the break - happy days !

ciderspider 04/Apr/14 2nd O/S

Fantastic route to second - great lead Mark

stuart34 01/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Gabi
leglesslizard ?/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

P2

Hidden 09/Mar/14 AltLd
CurlyStevo ?/Dec/13 AltLd

lead pitch 2 taking the more left line on the slab. just one hard move

uncontrollable 16/Nov/13 2nd rpt

improvised harness day

with Max
will moy 15/Oct/13 -

very dirty on the first pitch today. Watch out belay block wobbles!!!

with Jim Oakley
sarpedon 29/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
Hinchrn 29/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
with Simon Pawlowski
Martin Bagshaw 22/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
ipegg 22/Sep/13 AltLd
mr random 21/Sep/13 -

Greasy due to heavy sea mist. Lead first pitch but took a big lead fall on the 5a slab. The gear looks suspect but is very good.

with Teri chan
mr random 21/Sep/13 -

Greasy due to heavy sea mist. Lead first pitch but took a big lead fall on the 5a slab. The gear looks suspect but is very good.

with Teri chan
Abi Chard 16/Sep/13 AltLd β
with Ian
wild_nomad 12/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Outstanding! Great traverse and last pitch.

with Paul Day
Hidden 11/Sep/13 2nd rpt
Hidden 07/Sep/13 2nd rpt
francois 07/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Chawn
Hidden 31/Aug/13 AltLd
Vincej 31/Aug/13 AltLd
with Nevil
Hidden 29/Aug/13 AltLd rpt
dh7892 10/Aug/13 AltLd

Belay flake moves! Very dubious. Fun route though

Matt250 10/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Nice route, steady vs all the way. Block on the belay ledge moves a bit though.

with dh7892
Nick Clement 04/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with mandy clement
Georgia H ?/Aug/13 2nd
Wevcore 27/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with Rich
Luxulyan 27/Jul/13 AltLd rpt
with Kev Brown
Hidden 13/Jul/13 AltLd
Matt Smith 13/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

P1, matt lead his hardest pitch to date.

with Matt Cooper
WalnutHorse 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
JenDurden 23/Jun/13 AltLd
with Andy Jordan, Phil Davis
Hidden 23/Jun/13 AltLd
Dave Mahon 23/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Crashing waves, spray so greasy holds on p1. Ben almost got washed away!

with Ben Knudson
Nexonen 23/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Jen, Phil
crossdressingrodney 22/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Brilliant. Really tricky section on the slab. In one pitch.

Hidden 22/Jun/13 2nd O/S
ian d f 11/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Michael P, Pete H
pearson9596 11/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Pete Hiscox, Ian Faulkner
Hidden 09/Jun/13 2nd
Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead
joedoherty 05/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Josh Rigby
ChrisBrooke 02/Jun/13 2nd
with Colin Peck, Nadir Khan
stonemikey 02/Jun/13 Lead

Better even than I remember...

with Mark Ward
Kirill 01/Jun/13 AltLd rpt

Led P2 this time.

with Stevo
CurlyStevo ?/Jun/13 AltLd

Lead pitch 1 which is very good

UnkArl 26/May/13 Lead O/S

Lead both pitches. Not the best of conditions going under the roof, bit damp and greasy, also hard for VS 4c. I found the 5a crux move on the slab quite straightforward in comparison to P1.

with Debbie
Debs 26/May/13 2nd
with Karl
Hidden 21/May/13 AltLd rpt
derryclimbs 12/May/13 AltLd dog

did in 3 pitches as was not 'feeling it'

TommyA 11/May/13 2nd O/S
tim.fairhall 11/May/13 Lead O/S
with Tommy
Robin Woodward ?/May/13 Lead
Stroppy 30/Apr/13 AltLd rpt
RKirke 30/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
Monkey_Alan 21/Apr/13 AltLd rpt

Led P2.

Julian Prieto 21/Apr/13 AltLd rpt

Led P1

Tightsgirl 20/Apr/13 AltLd
arose 20/Apr/13 AltLd
Pete Randall 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Richard B
alaster tonge 30/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Lailah
Hidden 05/Mar/13 AltLd rpt
mike lawrence? 05/Mar/13 AltLd
with Paul
Hidden 19/Feb/13 Lead rpt
Monkey_Alan 26/Jan/13 AltLd rpt

Led P1.

Hidden ??/2013 -
saxdonkey ??/2013 2nd
ianto ??/2013 -
Leo49 ??/2013 -
LukeyG ??/2013 -

top pitch due to epic waves

Hidden 08/Dec/12 Lead rpt
LukeyG 13/Nov/12 Lead

Damp

Bob M 11/Nov/12 AltLd
LJKing 11/Nov/12 Lead rpt
with Bud Chawla
budchawla 11/Nov/12 2nd O/S
Monkey_Alan 11/Nov/12 AltLd rpt

Led P2.

ChrisBrooke 14/Oct/12 2nd

Great lead from Monica on P1. And good work from John on P2. It's a great technical crux move. Nearly got my pinky (finger) caught in the pocket. Stress-free Swanage top-out. Highly recommended.

with Monika Inkpen, John Inkpen
Monkey_Alan 07/Oct/12 AltLd rpt

Led P2.

with Nadine
debbie roberts 04/Oct/12 2nd
Marti999 04/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Debbie
Mr-Cowdrey 29/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
with Mark Stevenson
saz_b 22/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Did p2. Found the traverse on p1 hardest move on route. P2 only had a couple of testing moves.

with Rollo
Rollo 22/Sep/12 AltLd rpt

Lead first pitch this time.

with Saz
mikehenesy 15/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Let Tim do the first pitch, man when he was on the overhang there was so much leg shaking it was like being at an Elvis concert. Led the second pitch which I slipped off last time, nice move and did it properly.

with Tim Johns
jcooper8 10/Sep/12 AltLd
Tom Livingstone 10/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Alor_lab 26/Aug/12 2nd O/S
adam 24 26/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/12 Lead
mattyork2 19/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

A good Boulder Ruckle first pitch and then nice technical moves on the second. Led p2.

with Johnny Richard
Slarti B 04/Aug/12 AltLd rpt

Bit of a struggle with head but led P1 successfully, demon slain!

with Paul
AndyCook 04/Aug/12 2nd
Hidden 03/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Monkey_Alan 29/Jul/12 Lead rpt

Led P1.

uncontrollable 29/Jul/12 AltLd rpt

lead p2

with Alan B
Julian Prieto 28/Jul/12 Lead rpt
with Andy Combes, Ollie Dorrell
tradguy 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Rob Munday
martin one 21/Jul/12 AltLd rpt
with Tim
Liam Ingram 17/Jul/12 Lead O/S
catrin289 17/Jul/12 2nd dog
jcook1980 06/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Dan Moore
Luxulyan ?/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with Tom Murrell
Hidden 26/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
mc fifi 02/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
funsized ?/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
with Fi
tombushell ?/Jun/12 2nd
with Sam Husband, Ed Hastrop
Stroppy 31/May/12 Lead O/S
tombushell 31/May/12 2nd
with Ed
Hidden 26/May/12 2nd
Hidden 23/May/12 AltLd
jacobjlloyd 13/May/12 Lead rpt
with Sophie
lukerathmell 12/May/12 AltLd
with steve
Hidden 12/May/12 AltLd
elfka 03/May/12 2nd
with Mick Hunter
Hidden 24/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
chris_B 21/Apr/12 2nd rpt
louby 21/Apr/12 AltLd

I led P1

stuaart 21/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Lou led p1, I led P2

with Louise Atkin, Chris Burn
Simon Allcock 12/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
with Wilki
mikehenesy 08/Apr/12 AltLd

Out there man! The hand traverse out under the roof seems so unlikely. The guy before us chickened out and carried on up the HVS instead.

with Chris Lodge
harold walmsley 01/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Led p2. A little tough for VS at the end of p1 and the start of p2

with Paul Evans
mattkemp70 ?/Apr/12 AltLd
with Henry
Sam Husband 31/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Tom
TimKnight 31/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Enjoyed the slab, seconding the traverse was a little nervous

tombushell 31/Mar/12 2nd
Joemanglerocks 31/Mar/12 AltLd

Lead P1

Theeni 25/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch

with Matt Kemp
Gareth Bowen 23/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Led P2.

with Nathan Goddard, Dave Whitely
Hidden 22/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Ciro 25/Feb/12 Lead O/S

My first trad climb... lots of fun!

with Nic
Alan100 22/Jan/12 AltLd

Traverse on the first pitch felt a bit strenuous for the grade but nicely protected. Slab move off the belay is good (and easier for the tall).

Dave89 22/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

Led first pitch Alan Second

with Fat Al
Hidden 21/Jan/12 AltLd rpt
paultaylor 21/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
with Will
Monkey_Alan 21/Jan/12 Lead rpt

Led P1. Had a major epic starting the traverse, need to sort my trad head out.

Sophie Nunn 15/Jan/12 2nd rpt
with Floris
will moy ?/Jan/12 AltLd
with paul taylor
PAJames ??/2012 -
DOVEY ??/2012 -
Ian JL ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 AltLd
Kirill 12/Nov/11 AltLd O/S

led p1

cem 12/Nov/11 AltLd rpt

Led p2

Amy Kilpin 05/Nov/11 2nd
Hidden 05/Nov/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 22/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Oct/11 Lead
Slarti B 08/Oct/11 2nd

First time, led first pitch and fell just going over onto the ledge. Got pumped and then foot slipped. Then seconded Paul, great lead, finished in dark.

with Paul
nickdonohue ?/Oct/11 Lead
with Emma Grant, Chris Ridgers
Dunx 25/Sep/11 AltLd
with Joe M
Steve Lenartowicz 24/Sep/11 Lead
with Clare, Tilly
ASchwirtz 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Sep/11 2nd O/S
BelayBunney 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S

High in the grade (I am beginning to think all Guillemot Ledge routes are high in the grade though!) and quite dirty, but fun nether-the-less!

Dan Lane 17/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

My first route in at Swanage and good way to start.

Julie Carroll 15/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Led 2nd pitch.

with Helen Gibson
MarkRyder 28/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Iain
Mark Warnett ?/Aug/11 Lead O/S

good moves off the belay

Chris Manasseh 27/Jul/11 Lead

Lead both pitches.

with Andy Gee
Hidden 23/Jul/11 2nd O/S
rd20 17/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

RD P1

with Patrick
Ali.B 13/Jul/11 Lead O/S

1st pitch straight forward, 2nd pitch has delicate sequence with not great gear and falling onto belayer, hence why i think its deserving of HVS

Simon Cahill 08/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Epic with jammed rope just below belay. 1st pitch tough climb for 4c but some holds were wet and maybe off route, traversing to late?

with Ben Darby
Cheese Monkey 08/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Bit of an epic, but good fun! Led P2, easy 5a and a awesome mixed style pitch. P1 however was much harder, snapped a hold on traverse! We took a high line I think, so a lower line would be fine. 1st pitch hard 5a for me

with Simon C
Different Steve 25/Jun/11 AltLd rpt

P2 this time

with Guy Reid
Hidden 25/Jun/11 Lead
Hidden 19/Jun/11 AltLd
halfwaythere 08/Jun/11 Lead dog

I went off route on pitch 1 and headed up the adjacent HVS;then downclimbed; got pumped and had a rest on a piece of gear then took the traverse not the best rock there. Pitch 2; tricky start on the slab; not hard from there.

Hidden 07/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/11 2nd
Hidden 25/May/11 AltLd O/S
matt.jj 22/May/11 AltLd O/S

Love it! Lead 2nd pitch. Solid, enjoyable.

risby 08/May/11 2nd dog

Led first pitch but couldn't get past traverse. Came down for rest. Went up again, got four good bits of gear in traverse crack then fell coming out of roof. James finished off and then did second pitch with ease.

with Neil Pavey, James Bisset
Hidden 08/May/11 Lead β
Okecroak 28/Apr/11 AltLd
Chris Ebbutt 27/Apr/11 AltLd
with Dave R.
Hidden 25/Apr/11 Lead rpt
climbtim 25/Apr/11 2nd
djking1983 14/Apr/11 Lead O/S
theandthem 09/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 2.

RFWilkie 09/Apr/11 AltLd rpt

Again climbed top pitch after backed off first pitch.

with Kev
Hidden 06/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
martinazando 02/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
al99 02/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Ceridwen 27/Mar/11 2nd rpt
with Andy Mosienko
Hidden 19/Feb/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 19/Feb/11 Lead O/S
mattshort 12/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
louby 09/Jan/11 2nd
chris_B 09/Jan/11 Lead O/S
cymjt ??/2011 -
Sophie Nunn 08/Nov/10 2nd rpt
with Alex
AlexD 08/Nov/10 Lead
with Sophie
Monkey_Alan 07/Nov/10 AltLd rpt

Led P1.

with Mark James
matt.jj ?/Oct/10 AltLd
Dave Mahon ?/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

1 led P1.

Dave Mahon ?/Oct/10 AltLd

1 led P2 this time, a little bold leaving the stance, nice climbing.

sammycolon 26/Sep/10 2nd
Kevster 25/Sep/10 Lead
Andre Clarke 18/Sep/10 AltLd rpt

Lead 1st pitch

with Darrel Gibson
gibsond 18/Sep/10 AltLd rpt

Led second pitch to do the crux move.

Sophie Nunn 17/Sep/10 AltLd rpt
with Mick
3 Names 12/Sep/10 2nd
Jen Crook 23/Aug/10 Lead
Hidden 23/Aug/10 AltLd
jtree03 15/Aug/10 Lead
with dazza
Hidden 09/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden ?/Aug/10 -
Hidden 22/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
manwithacam 18/Jul/10 Lead

Found traverse under roof a bit tricky

with Mike R
Hidden 17/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Tightsgirl 03/Jul/10 2nd
with DAJ, Clare Francis
matt.jj ?/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 1 and enjoyed it. Good move under the overhang.

Guy Wilson 29/Jun/10 AltLd
with Rick Cotgreave
martin one 26/Jun/10 AltLd rpt
with Tim
Zoomer 06/Jun/10 AltLd

Really good route, good mix of styles.

ChrisBrooke 05/Jun/10 Lead rpt
with Maryanne Garon
Monkey_Alan 23/May/10 Lead rpt
risby 23/May/10 2nd dog
Spence22 15/May/10 Lead O/S
with Charlie
Hidden 26/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/10 Lead dnf
Bob M 06/Apr/10 AltLd
Denoir 06/Mar/10 2nd
nickdunn 06/Mar/10 Lead β
mattkemp70 ?/Mar/10 AltLd
with Westy
tscoobydoo ?/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
with phillip belcher
Graham Westbrook ?/Mar/10 AltLd
Hidden 20/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
ChrisBrooke 20/Feb/10 Lead rpt
with Sam Fergason
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 20/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
colkurtz 07/Feb/10 AltLd
with Robb
Hidden 07/Feb/10 AltLd
petecallaghan 17/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch - very pleasant climbing. Jauntily ascended the crux, which turns it from a 5a move to something much easier.

Jane Weir ??/2010 Lead
Hidden ??/2010 -
eroica64 18/Oct/09 2nd

Brilliant climb with gripping mid-climb belay. Ledge is above big overhang and wobbly flake rests on it. Yikes!!! It's all going to come down some time.

Monkey_Alan 04/Oct/09 Lead rpt

Led both pitches. Julian declined leading the 2nd after struggling on the slab.

Julian Prieto 04/Oct/09 2nd
DaNo123 26/Sep/09 2nd
with martin
Hidden 12/Sep/09 Lead rpt
Monkey_Alan 12/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch. Long reach helpful.

Steven Andrews 29/Aug/09 2nd
with Richard Lines
Andy Chubb 29/Aug/09 AltLd
with Nick Gregory
pelvoux 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Mario
strapless 18/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

1st me 2nd Stu

with Stu Evans
martin one 10/Aug/09 Lead rpt
with patrick
Dizz 09/Aug/09 2nd
with hugh
Hidden 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S
jacobjlloyd 08/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with Tim
Indy Nile 06/Aug/09 AltLd

p1 me, p2 Frodo. I went too far up the corner passing the roof, reversed down, did the traverse and popped off on the pull over just before the belay ledge, well peeved. re-did it clean.

uncontrollable 06/Aug/09 AltLd RP

lead pitch 2

with Des
Hidden ?/Aug/09 -
Hidden 28/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
crobinson 28/Jul/09 AltLd

Lovely route, traverse felt bold at first but all the holds are there. Watch out for the flake on the belay ledge, it wobbles!!!!!!

Hidden 26/Jul/09 AltLd rpt
strapless 28/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Ben
jezb1 21/Jun/09 AltLd

repeat but lead p2 this time. awesome nice route.

mark89 16/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
tbs105 06/Jun/09 -
with melanie and rauli
tonanf ?/Jun/09 Lead
with tomek
SGD 21/May/09 AltLd

lead P1

with Tom Relf
Bob M 20/May/09 AltLd
with Mick Ryan
Ceridwen 20/May/09 Lead O/S
Sophie Nunn 20/May/09 AltLd
petegruf 10/May/09 Lead rpt
with stuart
RFWilkie 09/May/09 AltLd O/S

Lead second pitch

with Bec
becster 09/May/09 AltLd
jezb1 18/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

lead P1, messed up lead on P2 so ended up seconding it with ease. Will have to lead P2 another time.

Hidden 05/Apr/09 2nd O/S
@ndy 27/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
uncontrollable 20/Feb/09 Solo

Roped Solo. first pitch clean, dogged second pitch, popping off the slap a couple of times,rather A1 in the end

AJM 14/Feb/09 AltLd O/S

Great route. The 5a slab grading is truly local grading though, it's barely even 4c if you've ever climbed a slab before...

with Ali Baylay, Stuart Fox
feilx 31/Jan/09 2nd rpt
with Tiff
TiffTiff 31/Jan/09 Lead β
with Felix
mick1jones 03/Jan/09 2nd dog

Tricky traverse left to belay on first pitch. There is however a huge jug to grab and place gear to protect second (which I didn't see until after I bottled it and hung on some gear lol!)

Alex More ??/2009 AltLd O/S
with bob
Hidden ??/2009 AltLd
uncontrollable 06/Dec/08 Solo dnf

roped solo gave up at the first roof and down climbed

Ybot Htulk ?/Dec/08 AltLd
Hidden 29/Oct/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Oct/08 AltLd
Hidden ?/Oct/08 AltLd
Hidden 28/Sep/08 Lead
Chris the Tall 14/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Scott Titt
Tom Gadsden 30/Aug/08 Lead dog

Tom P1 Roly P2 Popped off on traverse

with Roly
Rollo 30/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Lead 2nd pitch.

with Tom
PilarMartinez 24/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Roland
Hidden 15/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
Simonfarfaraway 30/Jul/08 AltLd
with Dave A
Mr Tickle 19/Jul/08 Lead O/S

Cracking climb, lovely move on slab at the start of the 2nd pitch.

with davenev
davenev 19/Jul/08 2nd O/S
with luke
Hidden 15/Jul/08 Lead O/S
jamie ward 28/Jun/08 AltLd O/S

Superb route solid rock exiting situations and good gear througout.

with Marcus Harvey
tebs 22/Jun/08 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch - good climb, nice moves up the slab above the belay

with Mike
existing debt 05/Jun/08 -
with Iain a
riddle 31/May/08 Lead O/S

Great climbing!

with Yasmina
Hidden 31/May/08 2nd dog
Andy Chubb 30/May/08 Lead
with Gideon Castro
Hidden 04/Apr/08 Lead O/S
georgeevans88 04/Apr/08 2nd O/S
with Harry
Harry Thorpe 22/Mar/08 2nd O/S

First multipitch

with Rick, Sarah Rixham
Hidden ??/2008 -
RocknRoll 18/Dec/07 AltLd O/S

I lead first pitch, Tris lead the second

with Tris
Marq 30/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

MD

with Daniel Dennehy
Hidden 15/Sep/07 Lead O/S
cmsg 15/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Luke Gannarelli
Bob M 05/Aug/07 AltLd
with Stewart Walker
cmsg 04/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Luke Gannarelli
Matt Shepherd 10/Jun/07 Lead O/S
topsyturvy ?/Jun/07 Lead
with Mike P
clarendon ?/Jun/07 2nd
with Tris
Hidden 28/May/07 AltLd O/S
AJ007 28/May/07 AltLd
Different Steve 05/May/07 AltLd rpt

Led P1 - very stiff for VS!

with Simon Curtis
cem 29/Apr/07 AltLd rpt

Led p2

with Clive Marston
MontyH 04/Apr/07 Lead rpt
with Pete Frost and Paul Milton
Hidden 17/Mar/07 -
Sylvi 15/Mar/07 AltLd

I led the first pitch, the move under the buldge was committing, and excellent.

with Simon
dan gibson 15/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
with helen gibson
Richard Horn 10/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
Rob84 18/Feb/07 Lead O/S
with Jim D
clarendon ??/2007 2nd
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
The Jazz Butcher ??/2007 -
mat cooper ??/2007 Lead
LiLaMont 19/Nov/06 2nd β
tobydunford 19/Nov/06 Lead O/S

Lead both pitches, really enjoyed whole climb, esp traversing under the roof and the position of the belay. Second pitch nice and cruisy after the initial slab move, well protected.

Bob M 05/Nov/06 AltLd
with Robert Floyd, Paul Rigg
Ed Babs 17/Sep/06 Lead O/S

+ AltLd (P2) 22/07/10 with Tom Thorne

with Nick Reason
Hidden 11/Sep/06 Lead
ChrisBrooke 23/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
with John Inkpen
Hidden 01/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Marq 08/Apr/06 AltLd O/S

DM

with Daniel Dennehy
peas ?/Apr/06 2nd O/S
with Chris Ford
andyfeds ?/Apr/06 Lead rpt
with Toby W, Andy C
clipskipper 19/Mar/06 AltLd rpt

Lead the first pitch under the roof - first really committing lead, and again excellent. No rests on gear and no falls.

with Davey Boy
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
nige pacer 11/Dec/05 AltLd O/S

With andy naylor

cem 10/Dec/05 2nd rpt
andyfeds ?/Sep/05 AltLd

Max led bottom pitch

with Max S
Hidden ?/Sep/05 Lead
Dorset 12/Jul/05 2nd
with Neil Weymouth
Bob M 11/May/05 AltLd
Hidden ?/May/05 Lead O/S
Boxy 20/Feb/05 Lead O/S
timharrison 27/Jan/05 AltLd O/S

I led the first pitch, must lead the second.

with Keith
Geoffers ??/2005 AltLd O/S
with Simon, Tim
Piers Harley ??/2005 2nd
with Paul Winder
feilx ??/2005 -
chrisbevins ??/2005 Lead O/S
ferdia 31/Oct/04 2nd
with Mike Mavrolean, Andrew Wielochowski
Norman_P_W 24/Oct/04 AltLd
with Bob M
Bob M 24/Oct/04 AltLd
Haglington ?/Aug/04 AltLd O/S
with Tom Palin
Outdoorfun37 18/Jun/04 2nd
with Paul Chidel
jl 01/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Rachel
Owen W-G 16/May/04 Lead O/S
with Matt Baynham
brian watson ?/Jan/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jan/04 2nd
brian watson ??/2004 Lead O/S
Jon Greengrass ??/2004 -
with Paul H
Hidden ??/2004 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2004 2nd O/S
DavidR 10/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
with Royston Smith
five ?/Apr/03 Lead O/S
Adrian Daniels 09/Mar/03 AltLd
with John Parrott
Hidden 10/Feb/03 AltLd O/S
MontyH 08/Sep/02 Lead
with Andy Lawrance
Bob M 30/Aug/02 AltLd
with Julian Taylor
John HW 24/Jun/02 AltLd O/S
with Cath
chris sm 01/Jun/02 Lead O/S

Led both pitches.

with Pippa Froggatt
Tightsgirl 24/Apr/02 2nd
with DAJ, Clare Francis
Hidden 03/Oct/01 AltLd
Hidden ?/Feb/01 Lead
cem 21/Oct/00 AltLd O/S

Led p1

with Miles Butteriss
climbtim ?/Oct/00 AltLd
with ghost
Hidden 03/Jul/00 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/00 AltLd
Hidden ?/Feb/00 Lead O/S
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
DafSWMC ?/Feb/99 Lead O/S
CMacD ??/1999 -
Bob M 20/Dec/98 AltLd
with Jill Stevens
Roget 01/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with Barry Marsden
Bob M 22/Mar/98 -
with Pam Jolliffe
Hidden 15/Feb/98 2nd
r0b 11/Sep/97 Lead O/S

Rich led the 1st pitch and I the 2nd this day, but I had previously led the 1st pitch a few months before when my 2nd was unable to follow.

with Richard Smith
Hidden 04/Jul/96 AltLd O/S
pezzerrr ??/1996 AltLd O/S
colin milton 26/Aug/95 AltLd
with eric milton
TonyF 15/Oct/94 AltLd O/S
with Pete Scott
Hidden 02/Jul/94 Lead
Hidden 18/Jun/94 2nd dog
Robmwatt ??/1994 -
sdht ??/1993 -
MoWalker3 16/Nov/91 AltLd
with Joe
rogerskews 21/Sep/91 AltLd
with Martin Coward
kp64zl ?/Apr/91 AltLd
with Paul
Hidden 03/May/90 -
Nigel Coe 03/May/90 -
with Scott Titt, Tim Dunsby
DaveHo ??/1990 Lead O/S
steve taylor ?/Aug/88 Lead
with mark grover
Nigel Coe 23/Nov/86 Lead
with Mike Scott
RichardMc 22/Jun/86 Lead
with Chris Owens
Nigel Coe ?/Jun/86 -
with Frank Farrell
ill_bill ?/May/86 2nd
DDDD ?/Aug/85 Lead O/S
eroica64 04/Jul/85 Lead O/S
with John Graeme
Nigel Coe 14/Aug/83 AltLd
with Pete Oxley
Nigel Coe 20/Jun/82 -
with Steve Portnoi
Nigel Coe 02/May/82 AltLd
with Tim Dunsby
Dave Musgrove 21/Feb/81 AltLd
with Mike Butler
Chris Terrey ?/Oct/80 Lead
with Pete Hevezi
turnerk ??/1979 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove 30/Nov/74 2nd dnf

It was getting dark so we finished up pitch 2 of Manana

with Richard Crewe, Keith Butler
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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 132
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 125
Votes cast 120
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set