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180m, 7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A classic route combining face, crack and corner climbing. Unfortunately suffering a little from its popularity, the rock is polished in places. Most parties exit right after the fifth pitch to join the Schober/Kleisl (Rossi) route, but there is now a direct finish which follows the short upper arete.
Start on the right of the left pillar, just below and right of a large corner.
1) VI-, 40m. Ascend the grey rocks at the base then move left on a ledge below the large corner. Follow this, which narrows to form a tight chimney (rucksack wearers beware!). Trend slightly left to reach a stance below a yellow corner-crack.
2) VI-, 20m. Move left and up for 2m then traverse back right to enter the yellow crack. Climb this direct to a stance on a ledge below a gully.
3) V+, 20m. Step left and climb a corner-crack, then follow a yellow flake left to avoid a bulge. Climb direct to a stance on a detached block.
4) III, 30m. Climb the vegetated rock above direct (alternatively move right and climb a corner - harder at IV+) then follow a technical crack to reach a ledge. Follow this right.
5) V+, 40m. Climb direct to a niche and move right from this. Follow moves up the pocketed face up and left to reach a black crack (possible belay in case of rope drag). Climb the crack direct, pull through a bulge and continue to reach easy-angled rock leading right.
Exit right and follow a ledge, with an intermediate stance shared with Icterus, to join the final pitch of the Schober/Kleisl (Rossi) route, or alternatively continue as below:
Direct Finish
6) VI, 40m. Follow pitch 5 to the ledge then traverse left and climb a steep face direct. Move left to reach an arete, and climb this trending right on ever easier ground to exit onto the ledge below the summit. © Rockfax

Tissi 1936.

Ticklists

Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
peterbeaumont u 12 Aug, 2018 AltLd The rockfax guide description for pitch 2 is wrong. The local BERNARDI guide has a move left and up for 2 m then back into the crack which is climbed direct at VI- making a more balanced and logical route. The direct finish is givenVI- but V is more like it.otherwise brilliant climbing throughout
The rockfax guide description for pitch 2 is wrong. The local BERNARDI guide has a move left and up for 2 m then back into the crack which is climbed direct at VI- making a more balanced and logical route. The direct finish is givenVI- but V is more like it.otherwise brilliant climbing throughout
budchawla 6 Aug, 2016 AltLd Not the most perfect ascent as we had some logistical issues, climbing in an unfamiliar three etc and 2 dropped shoes and one dropped radio. Also the top pitches were running with water from heavy rain the previous day so not the best conditions, but this would be a great route on another day. Top pitches are great climbing. P1 is terrifying, especially with a backpack on :)
with Andrey Murashov, JRennie
Not the most perfect ascent as we had some logistical issues, climbing in an unfamiliar three etc and 2 dropped shoes and one dropped radio. Also the top pitches were running with water from heavy rain the previous day so not the best conditions, but this would be a great route on another day. Top pitches are great climbing. P1 is terrifying, especially with a backpack on :)
with Andrey Murashov, JRennie
brockers 26 Aug, 2015 Lead First pitch was hard and polished. Second pitch was NOT the grade described in rock fax. More like VI, I went up the LH crack. The long 4th pitch was excellent again VI-
First pitch was hard and polished. Second pitch was NOT the grade described in rock fax. More like VI, I went up the LH crack. The long 4th pitch was excellent again VI-
Maddie 2 Aug, 2014 2nd dog Good to get another long route in. Chimney was fun though I couldn't get a foot to stick on the polish and so had to pull through on the tat. P2 is awesome laybacking, looks scary but jugs everywhere. Same on either 3 or 4. Fell again when we went off route as holds were soaked and committed to the wrong one.
with remus
Good to get another long route in. Chimney was fun though I couldn't get a foot to stick on the polish and so had to pull through on the tat. P2 is awesome laybacking, looks scary but jugs everywhere. Same on either 3 or 4. Fell again when we went off route as holds were soaked and committed to the wrong one.
with remus
Hidden 2 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 13 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S
Kirill 31 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Led P1, P3, P5, P7. Superb climbing on all pitches. Got a bit lost on the descent, which made it slightly more exciting than we expected.
Led P1, P3, P5, P7. Superb climbing on all pitches. Got a bit lost on the descent, which made it slightly more exciting than we expected.
Hidden 17 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
CurlyStevo ? Aug, 2013 AltLd lead even pitches, first VI-. A Good route and fairly well protected. The polish on pitch 1 does make it a bit less secure but not a huge amount so if you get in the crack at the first opportunity. Pitch 2 the polish is less of a problem but still an issue. After that its fine. Pitch 5 is very very good.
with Kirill
lead even pitches, first VI-. A Good route and fairly well protected. The polish on pitch 1 does make it a bit less secure but not a huge amount so if you get in the crack at the first opportunity. Pitch 2 the polish is less of a problem but still an issue. After that its fine. Pitch 5 is very very good.
with Kirill
alpinist63 24 Jul, 2013 Lead
Lenny ? Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Phil .N
with Phil .N
Hidden 1 Aug, 2012 -
Hidden 1 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
John Nuttall 14 Jul, 2012 AltLd Varied and sustained.
with Andy H
Varied and sustained.
with Andy H
whistler 8 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S Good
with Mark Littlewood
Good
with Mark Littlewood
Wil Treasure 5 Jul, 2012 AltLd Horrible chimneys, not a great route, but worthwhile.
Horrible chimneys, not a great route, but worthwhile.
Hidden 22 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
roberts1234567890 12 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
with Josh Legg
with Josh Legg
jlismore 21 Jun, 2011 AltLd
with Andy Griffiths, Joe Stearn
with Andy Griffiths, Joe Stearn
Em66 ? Jun, 2011 AltLd
Hidden ? Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
steveb2006 u 21 Aug, 2010 AltLd
with Chris Parkin
with Chris Parkin
SteveMyatt 1 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Mark Fairbank
with Mark Fairbank
markfairbank 1 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S Seconded the even pitches which were hard work with a bulky sack. Great route though with an easy ab back down.
Seconded the even pitches which were hard work with a bulky sack. Great route though with an easy ab back down.
GraMc 4 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S really nice top section but the bottom is rank and polished
with henward
really nice top section but the bottom is rank and polished
with henward
PTatts ? Aug, 2008 AltLd
paul79 ? Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
alpinist63 15 Aug, 2007 Lead
Hidden 2 Aug, 2007 Lead O/S
alpinist63 28 Jul, 2007 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22 Jul, 2007 AltLd O/S
cem 5 Sep, 2005 AltLd O/S Led odd numbered pitches. 3 hours
with Dave Amos
Led odd numbered pitches. 3 hours
with Dave Amos
chris wyatt ??, 2005 -
with Mike Barclay
with Mike Barclay
Hidden 27 Aug, 2003 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25 Jun, 2003 AltLd O/S
John HW ? May, 2002 AltLd O/S
with Stuart Mackenzie
with Stuart Mackenzie
NickJH ? Jul, 2000 AltLd O/S
with JThomas
with JThomas
Andy Say 12 Jul, 1996 Lead O/S Pitch 1 bloody desperate!
with jamie smith, andy oxley
Pitch 1 bloody desperate!
with jamie smith, andy oxley
tjekel ??, 1993 -
ajtay ? Aug, 1991 AltLd
with Alan Thomson Matthew Smith
with Alan Thomson Matthew Smith
Dave Garnett u 22 Aug, 1986 AltLd O/S
with Jane Garnett
with Jane Garnett
bobelvedere 12 Jul, 1981 AltLd
with Niels Ole Bernsen
with Niels Ole Bernsen
Mark Kemball u 26 Jun, 1979 AltLd
with Wawa
with Wawa
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Voting
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
High VI-
Mid VI-
Low VI-
High V+
Mid V+
Low V+
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest

Via Messner

Grade: VI- ***
(Sella Towers)