A superb climb which, although not offering particularly striking situations, provides excellent climbing on predominantly good rock. There are numerous variations, some of which suggest a possible ascent at IV+, but it is worth being confident at upper grade V to find the best climbing following the line of highest quality rock. Reasonably well-pegged with equipped stances, but perhaps less fixed gear than on other classic mid-grade routes.
Start beneath the memorial plaque to Hans Plank.
1) IV-, 35m. Follow a rising rightwards diagonal line up a natural weakness to a large ledge just left of the arete to a 2-peg stance and a spike.
2) IV, 50m. Step right on good rock towards the arete. From the arete, climb direct, with a number of variations, to reach a 3-peg belay 5m left of arete.
3) IV, 40m. Step 3m right then climb a chimney with an awkward move to enter it, then after 12m follow a vegetated rocky ramp to a 2-peg stance.
4) V, 35m. Climb up for a few metres to a peg then traverse right on good rock (thread) to a stance by a yellow shattered niche.
4a) IV, 35m. Alternatively, carry on direct up the vegetated crack (often wet but easier) then traverse more easily right, thus avoiding the bulge of the next pitch.
5) V+, 30m. From the niche, move up and right to a peg and pull through a bulge on a hidden side-pull, then move right for 1m onto the arete. Climb a shallow corner-crack - smooth and tricky at first then easier - and continue to easier ground and a stance on a large grassy ledge.
6) V, 45m. There are several variations here. Either traverse 4m right to a shattered chimney and climb this, angling back towards the arete for 45m to a niche.
6a) VI-, Alternatively, go direct from the stance to a flake and climb this (harder but excellent climbing), which is bold but protectable with micro-cams, then continue in the same line just left of the arete on a series of well-worn pockets, to reach a white corner. Climb this to a stance in a niche.
6b) IV+, It is also possible to move further right around the arete then climb direct (easier but on less-solid rock).
7) V-, 40m. Follow the white rock right (ignoring tat that tempts you to move left) passing a mini-arete to reach the main arete. Climb direct through a bulge then continue with excellent climbing to a stance 1m left of the main arete.
8) IV-, 40m. Continue up the arete on nice pockets to a grassy ledge (intermediate belay at 15m) then continue diagonally left up a crack, trending left up a chimney to reach a terrace below the summit.
9) II, 50m. Follow the path left along the terrace to reach a notch between the second and third Sella Towers, then double back right to scramble to the summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A lot of variations exist. Good days outing.
(250m, 9 pitches up to V+, or 300m, 11 pitches up to IV+, depending on guidebook)