A justifiably popular route that predominantly stays just right of the west ridge proper. It is recommended to start early to avoid the crowds. The climb is suffering from polish in places because of its popularity.
Start beneath a slightly vegetated leftwards trending gully to the right of the main arete.
1) III+, 25m. Climb the leftward trending gully to a large ledge.
2) I, 20m. Walk right along the ledge and belay underneath the second chimney you encounter.
3) IV-, 40m. Climb the chimney belaying on the left at the top.
4) I, 15m. Walk right again and belay under a steep crack.
5) IV, 40m. Climb that crack which is easier than it first appears until you find yourself on the arete again.
6) IV+, 20m. Climb 2m on the left side of the arete before crossing back over onto the right and entering a corner. Climb this until you reach easier ground and a belay at the top.
7) Easy ground now leads to the summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Straight forward climbing. 160m. 7 pitches
Steger, Holzner 30 Jun 1928.
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