UKC

7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A justifiably popular route that predominantly stays just right of the west ridge proper. It is recommended to start early to avoid the crowds. The climb is suffering from polish in places because of its popularity.
Start beneath a slightly vegetated leftwards trending gully to the right of the main arete.
1) III+, 25m. Climb the leftward trending gully to a large ledge.
2) I, 20m. Walk right along the ledge and belay underneath the second chimney you encounter.
3) IV-, 40m. Climb the chimney belaying on the left at the top.
4) I, 15m. Walk right again and belay under a steep crack.
5) IV, 40m. Climb that crack which is easier than it first appears until you find yourself on the arete again.
6) IV+, 20m. Climb 2m on the left side of the arete before crossing back over onto the right and entering a corner. Climb this until you reach easier ground and a belay at the top.
7) Easy ground now leads to the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Straight forward climbing. 160m. 7 pitches

Steger, Holzner 30 Jun 1928.

Ticklists

Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel , Dolomites Trip , Dolomites easy multipitch , Dolomites

Feedback

User Date Notes
Bruise Apprentice 20 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: There is a well equipped abseil point (bolt, peg and maillon) if you continue down the rib instead of turning left towards the saddle between the towers. You will be able to see the coloured tat connecting the bolt and peg at the point where you are about level with the saddle. 25-30m to the path below. Continue west along the path via a scree filled gully or two, and you'll either be able to scramble off westward or turn off by a large cairn to use another abseil point (bolts and snapgate on a chain). 20-25m to the ground.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There is a well equipped abseil point (bolt, peg and maillon) if you continue down the rib instead of turning left towards the saddle between the towers. You will be able to see the coloured tat connecting the bolt and peg at the point where you are about level with the saddle. 25-30m to the path below. Continue west along the path via a scree filled gully or two, and you'll either be able to scramble off westward or turn off by a large cairn to use another abseil point (bolts and snapgate on a chain). 20-25m to the ground.
Dannyy 1 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Rockfax guide poorly describes this. Best to start in the niche with a silver peg and stuck tricam to avoid the chossy gully. Crux pitch is well protected with bolts and pegs.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rockfax guide poorly describes this. Best to start in the niche with a silver peg and stuck tricam to avoid the chossy gully. Crux pitch is well protected with bolts and pegs.
james.slater 12 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Would be far better to scramble up to the notch and belay in the slot with a silver peg. Then run the rest of the first pitch (from rock fax) into the first traverse pitch and belay under the chimney.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Would be far better to scramble up to the notch and belay in the slot with a silver peg. Then run the rest of the first pitch (from rock fax) into the first traverse pitch and belay under the chimney.
Maarten2 27 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Apparently, one can just scramble to the notch between the Locomotive and the First Tower, bypassing the chossy 1st pitch, shown on the RockFax photo..
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Apparently, one can just scramble to the notch between the Locomotive and the First Tower, bypassing the chossy 1st pitch, shown on the RockFax photo..
Tom Milne 10 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: This route has a slightly confusing chossy start, depending on which guidebook you use, but the three IV pitches are well worth the effort. Beware of polished holds, especially in the chimney which can be quite slippery.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This route has a slightly confusing chossy start, depending on which guidebook you use, but the three IV pitches are well worth the effort. Beware of polished holds, especially in the chimney which can be quite slippery.

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Voting
High V-
Mid V-
Low V-
High IV+
Mid IV+
Low IV+
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 18
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Via del Diedro - Torre del Barancio Summit

Grade: IV+ ***
(Cinque Torri)

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