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UKClimbing Team

30m. slanting 3 pitches iconical off width crack requiring n5-6 camelots...or a bold approach. A must do italian arrampicata classica.

Ticklists

Classic Valle dell'Orco Cracks

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 10 Oct, 2019 Lead O/S
phillipwright 25 Sep, 2019 Lead O/S Great fun, horizontal crack with good holds along the way. Only one cam really fits, the big bd6
Great fun, horizontal crack with good holds along the way. Only one cam really fits, the big bd6
joe1joe1joe2 25 Sep, 2019 2nd β Seconded Phill. Not much jamming/ no jamming except for your legs. Be wary of the death block at the anchor. Huge chunk of wobbly granite that makes some horrific noises when you have to pull on it.
Seconded Phill. Not much jamming/ no jamming except for your legs. Be wary of the death block at the anchor. Huge chunk of wobbly granite that makes some horrific noises when you have to pull on it.
dom_joyce265 25 Sep, 2019 2nd β
Hidden 13 Aug, 2019 Lead O/S
Hidden 17 Jul, 2019 Lead O/S
FH 17 Jul, 2019 2nd
with SP
with SP
mrbird 6 Jun, 2019 Lead O/S 5 and 6 cams can be hired from the campsite.
5 and 6 cams can be hired from the campsite.
Ben Bouissou 7 May, 2019 -
Hidden 24 May, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2018 -
janegallwey 28 Jul, 2017 2nd rpt
Hidden 28 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
pauldrew 10 Jul, 2017 2nd Felt easy on second - VS 4c on grit.
with Neil Waters
Felt easy on second - VS 4c on grit.
with Neil Waters
walts4 7 Jun, 2017 - Wonderful climbing, the fear can be controlled by either big cams or throwing your right thigh into the crack.
Wonderful climbing, the fear can be controlled by either big cams or throwing your right thigh into the crack.
janegallwey 7 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S
Flavio 17 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S A friend in neeeeed is a friend indeeeeed, a friend of the right size is betterrrrrrr, if you invest you should pass the test, and won't fill your pants in terrorrrrrrrr
with robinge
A friend in neeeeed is a friend indeeeeed, a friend of the right size is betterrrrrrr, if you invest you should pass the test, and won't fill your pants in terrorrrrrrrr
with robinge
Andy Peak 1 29 Jul, 2016 Lead Ha ha comedy followed first pich, lead the second, even with a 5 and 6 Camelot still spicy :-)
with Geoff82
Ha ha comedy followed first pich, lead the second, even with a 5 and 6 Camelot still spicy :-)
with Geoff82
druss 3 Jun, 2016 AltLd dnf Rained off after Peter reaching end of P2. Only seconded P1 which was straight forward, unlike the battle Peter had with P2. :(
Rained off after Peter reaching end of P2. Only seconded P1 which was straight forward, unlike the battle Peter had with P2. :(
poeter210 3 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
with druss
with druss
QuentinSu 26 Sep, 2015 AltLd RP
Dave Rumney 30 Aug, 2015 2nd Megan. P1 only
Megan. P1 only
Hidden 25 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 25 Jul, 2015 2nd
Dr Toph 27 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S Excellent wide weirdness. Full route this time, lead all pitches. P2 is definitely the trickiest, and impressively run out even with one BD#6 (two would be safe). Anchor at S3 is dodgy, one loose piton, so back up with cams and ab gently onto big ledge to left to make decent from chains (or continue up). Also try not to pull on the huge spike at the end of P1 - it wobbles!
Excellent wide weirdness. Full route this time, lead all pitches. P2 is definitely the trickiest, and impressively run out even with one BD#6 (two would be safe). Anchor at S3 is dodgy, one loose piton, so back up with cams and ab gently onto big ledge to left to make decent from chains (or continue up). Also try not to pull on the huge spike at the end of P1 - it wobbles!
Alice Thompson 22 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S Amazing! Never climbed an off-width before. Had no size 5 or 6 Cams but still went anyway... Scary.. But an incredible climb!
with Zeynep Tantekin
Amazing! Never climbed an off-width before. Had no size 5 or 6 Cams but still went anyway... Scary.. But an incredible climb!
with Zeynep Tantekin
James Thacker 6 Sep, 2014 -
w.pettet-smith ?Sep, 2014 -
with Andi
with Andi
Hidden 10 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
Alex@home 10 Jul, 2014 2nd O/S P1 only. Didn't have any big gear for the other pitches
with TonyM
P1 only. Didn't have any big gear for the other pitches
with TonyM
soph 1 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Tony Stone
with Tony Stone
morganator 1 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S Borrowed 2 cam 5s and a cam 6 of some dope-smoking Swiss guys on the campsite. Good outing!
with Misha Gopaul
Borrowed 2 cam 5s and a cam 6 of some dope-smoking Swiss guys on the campsite. Good outing!
with Misha Gopaul
Dr Toph 19 Oct, 2013 Lead O/S Just P1 this time, for the warm up. Be gentle with the huge spike/flake R of the belay - it moves alarmingly!
with Claudio
Just P1 this time, for the warm up. Be gentle with the huge spike/flake R of the belay - it moves alarmingly!
with Claudio
LRob 9 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S Mental
Mental
Lenny 30 Aug, 2013 Lead pitch 1 only.
with John
pitch 1 only.
with John
ashtond6 31 Mar, 2013 - play on P1
play on P1
alice fuller ?Aug, 2012 2nd O/S Jan lead it. Dan and i seconded the 1st 2 pitches clean:) We didn't do it the classic way jamming our limbs in like Woj and Jan(we laybacked). Would have been swings if we had fallen off.Amazing to just be there:)
with wojt
Jan lead it. Dan and i seconded the 1st 2 pitches clean:) We didn't do it the classic way jamming our limbs in like Woj and Jan(we laybacked). Would have been swings if we had fallen off.Amazing to just be there:)
with wojt
conorjclarke 25 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S just the first pitch, in a hurry. thanks to the swiss guys who let me borrow a BD #5 and 6! such a beautiful, bloody line
with Neal Gupta
just the first pitch, in a hurry. thanks to the swiss guys who let me borrow a BD #5 and 6! such a beautiful, bloody line
with Neal Gupta
harold walmsley 31 May, 2012 AltLd O/S Led p2 with 2x #6 and 1x #5 Friends.
with Colin Struthers
Led p2 with 2x #6 and 1x #5 Friends.
with Colin Struthers
TomPR 25 Sep, 2010 Lead
Hidden 15 Aug, 2010 2nd O/S
Hidden 21 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
French Erick 30 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S What a battle. 3 mars bars for the grade
with DaveHK
What a battle. 3 mars bars for the grade
with DaveHK
DaveHK 30 Jul, 2008 AltLd Sadly the grade voting doesn't offer an E14 option for this route.
with Erick Baillot
Sadly the grade voting doesn't offer an E14 option for this route.
with Erick Baillot
michaelja ?Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S Queit a run out on pitch 2 when you don't have big camelots with you. Pitch 5 was also pretty desperate.
Queit a run out on pitch 2 when you don't have big camelots with you. Pitch 5 was also pretty desperate.
TomPR ?Jul, 2008 -
Hidden 28 Jun, 2008 AltLd O/S
Hammy 10 Aug, 1981 AltLd
with Rob Lawson
with Rob Lawson
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 11
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 11
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest

Locatelli-Alberto

Grade: E1 5a ***
(Monte Destrera)