UKC

Contributed by Flavio Oct/23 - This public ticklist has been seen 142 times

All the routes in the selected 2020 Orco guide by Paolo Seimandi.

This is a selection of the best cracks in the area for a wide range of grades (4c-8b). Although the focus is on the modern "short climb" cragging style, some which include just the first pitch of long routes, some full multipitches have also been included.

Almost all routes are Trad with bolted belays/loweroffs, only a handful are fully bolted but can be Greenpointed.

Arriving at the start of the business end of the route.   © druss
Arriving at the start of the business end of the route.
© druss, Jun 2016

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User Percentage Latest Log
1st Flavio 57% 7 Oct, 2023

Map of routes in this ticklist

Least routes Most routes

Distribution of grades

Top 12 photos of this ticklist

Not a bad hangover cure. Orco festival ‘23

Legoland (P2)
Not a bad hangover cure. Orco festival ‘23
© mattjoynson

Hanging out on P2 of Lego Land, 7b roof crack in Valle Orco.

Legoland (P2)
Hanging out on P2 of Lego Land, 7b roof crack in Valle Orco.
© Katiek

Sitting Bull, Val d'Orco

Sitting Bull
Sitting Bull, Val d'Orco
© markryle

Incastromania at Sergent, Orco Valley, Italy

Incastromania
Incastromania at Sergent, Orco Valley, Italy
© George Frisby

"Climb behind the chockstone through the narrow hole"...  isn't easy when you're 6'5"

Locatelli
"Climb behind the chockstone through the narrow hole"... isn't easy when you're 6'5"
© Dave Rumney

Peter approaching the crux.

Diedro del Mistero
Peter approaching the crux.
© druss

Incastromania at Sergent, Orco Valley, Italy

Incastromania
Incastromania at Sergent, Orco Valley, Italy
© George Frisby

Steep!

Diedro Nanchez
Steep!
© walts4

Sitting Bull

Sitting Bull
© monsteratt

Arriving at the start of the business end of the route.

Incastromania
Arriving at the start of the business end of the route.
© druss

Peter following up the top section.

Fessura del Tramonto
Peter following up the top section.
© druss

The classic wide crack on Sergent!

Fessura della Disperazione (P1)
The classic wide crack on Sergent!
© druss


Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
Greenspit 8b *** - 13m Rosone - Fornolosa...
Fessura del Talismano 7b - 18m Rosone - Fornolosa...
Dita Belin 6c - 17m Rosone - Fornolosa...
Rocky Marciano 8a - 15m Rosone - Fornolosa...
End of the Flare 7a+ 1 40m • 2 Rosone - Fornolosa...
Penitenziagite 8a 1 22m Rosone - Fornolosa...
Cuore di Cane 5b - 27m Rosone - Fornolosa...
Uova Fatali 5a - 27m Rosone - Fornolosa...
Il Maestro e Margherita 6b - 18m Rosone - Fornolosa...
Block Party 6b ** - 22m Rosone - Fornolosa...
Woman 6c+ - 22m Rosone - Fornolosa...
Maximum Duty 7b+ - 18m Rosone - Fornolosa...
Spaccaditi 6c - 12m Rosone - Fornolosa...
Suona Morto 8a - 20m Rosone - Fornolosa...
Gloves of War 7c *** 2 20m Rosone - Fornolosa...
Fessura della Betulla 5c - 12m Rosone - Fornolosa...
Fessura Fisher 6c+ - 30m Rosone - Fornolosa...
Cani e Gatti (P1) 6c+ ** - 30m Torre di Aimonin
Conosci Te Stesso 8a - 50m Torre di Aimonin
Bagonghi 7a+ *** 1 30m Torre di Aimonin
La Quete dei Principi 5c - 15m Rosone - Fornolosa...
If 6c+ - 25m Rosone - Fornolosa...
Percussioni Litiche 7b+ - 15m Rosone - Fornolosa...
Fessura del Tramonto 5c *** 32 40m Tramonto
L'Alba di Domani 6b *** 8 30m Tramonto
Sensa Cugnisuin 6c * 11 10m Caporal
Ollio 5a ** 9 10m Caporal
Stanlio 5c *** 8 10m Caporal
Re5pect 6c ** 2 ? Caporal
Balungunfià 6a+ *** 3 ? Caporal
Diretta Piemontese Marchigiana 6b+ ** 2 ? Caporal
Ciaparat 7a ** 1 ? Caporal
Purity Test 7c - 15m Caporal
Si Vive Una Volta Sola 6a - 25m Caporal
Fessura dell'Odisseo 6a+ ** 17 ? Caporal
Fessura del Supplizio 6b+ ** 9 ? Caporal
Noto Orco di Tre Lettere 7b *** 1 10m Caporal
Avantgarde 6b+ 1 ? Caporal
Fessurolandia 6a 1 ? Caporal
Cinque Maggio 6b+ *** 3 45m • 2 Parete dei Falchi
Al Penultimo Sangue 6a+ *** 3 60m • 3 Parete dei Falchi
Diamantina 6b ** 2 80m • 3 Parete dei Falchi
Fessura del Pipistrello 6c+ *** 8 30m Caporal
Orecchio del Pachiderma 6b *** 12 40m Caporal
Orecchio del Pachiderma / Tempi Moderni / Rattle Snake 6c *** 33 200m • 6 Caporal
Diedro Nanchez 6b *** 25 200m • 6 Caporal
Piton P1 6a * 4 ? Sergent
Mamba 5a * 10 10m Sergent
Viper 4c * 11 10m Sergent
Legoland (P1) 6b *** 57 25m Sergent
Legoland (P2) 7b *** 9 15m Sergent
Mi Ritiro 6b ** 9 ? Sergent
Abraxas 6a+ * 3 ? Sergent
Back Door Man 6c+ ** 1 ? Sergent
Crollo dell'Impero Nero 6b ** 2 150m • 6 Sergent
Django 6c *** 2 ? Sergent
Diedro del Mistero 6b ** 9 60m • 3 Sergent
Paperoga 5c ** 13 25m Sergent
Situazione Insostenibile 5c * 2 25m Sergent
Nicchia delle Torture 6b *** 29 60m • 2 Sergent
Incastro Amaro 7a ** 1 ? Sergent
Cannabis (P1) 7b *** 12 ? • 4 Sergent
Cannabis (P4) 7a *** 6 25m Sergent
Incastromania 6a *** 124 ? Sergent
Espirazione 6c ** 4 ? Sergent
Fessura della Disperazione (P1) 5c *** 61 30m Sergent
Fessura della Disperazione (P2) 6b *** 28 35m Sergent
Fessura della Disperazione (P3) 6b *** 21 25m Sergent
Il Signore Nero 6a+ *** 27 25m Sergent
Paperetta Show (aka Mary Poppins) 5c *** 61 25m Sergent
Locatelli 6a ** 19 170m • 7 Sergent
Elisir d'Incastro 6b+ *** 34 25m Sergent
Return to Paradise 7a ** 3 25m Sergent
L'Avventuriero 6c+ *** 5 30m Sergent
L'Attacco dei Cloni 7b+ ** - 15m Sergent
L'Ultima Follia di Sir Biss 6c *** 6 270m • 7 Sergent
Non Siamo Mica Qui Per Divertirci 6c ** 2 20m Parete del Disertore
Totem Bianco 6c+ *** 6 150m • 4 Parete del Disertore
Ti Ho Perso Cavallino Ma Non Ti Dimentico 6b+ *** 8 200m • 4 Parete del Disertore
Yodaparo 6a * 6 25m Parete del Disertore
Paris-Texas 6b ** 9 80m • 3 Parete del Disertore
Un Gancio per due Sorelle (Left) E1 5b 10 15m Droide
Un Gancio per due Sorelle (Right) E4 6a * 12 15m Droide
Diedroladruida 6a+ ** 25 22m Droide
Las Landra 6b *** 20 20m Droide
L'Imbuto 6a+ *** 20 25m Droide
Apogeo 6a ** 73 20m Dado
Itcu 7a - 25m Dado
Il Maialone 6a+ ** 31 30m Dado
Orco Liebe 6c - 27m Dado
Cochise 2 6b *** 55 30m Dado
Cochise 1 5c ** 71 20m Dado
Bianca Parete 6b+ *** 54 25m Dado
Stanage Train 6c 1 ? Dado
Mr. Green 6b *** 29 35m Dado
Röyksopp 6c ** 2 ? Dado
Giadigiorda 6a+ - 12m Dado
Luxembourg Days 6c+ - 18m Dado
Sitting Bull 7a *** 25 30m Dado
Doron 6c 3 25m Dado
Geometria 6a 8 9m Dado
Hammerless 7b - 18m Dado
Impressioni di Settembre 6b *** 8 160m • 6 Scoglio di Mroz
Via Grassi 6a+ *** 2 100m • 3 Scoglio di Mroz
5 e, 177 stars 1,249 3,559m 158
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