A long route with plenty of good climbing although the moss can be a problem at times. Care needs to be taken with the huge flake on the first pitch. Start below a series of clean small grooves and thin cracks.
1) 5a, 30m. Climb the wall to a where a move up to the left reaches a slab. At its top, head left to the corner and climb it to a huge loose flake. Avoid the flake via the wall on its right that leads directly to a corner above (can be mossy). Follow the corner to a grassy ledge and traverse left to a belay.
2) 5b, 15m. Move up to an overhung niche, then go right onto the steep wall. Enter and climb a groove to a large grassy ledge and belays.
3) 4c, 13m. Climb a short steep corner to an overhang then move left to a groove that leads to the top. © Rockfax
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