Rockfax Description
115m. This amalgamation of various pitches gives one of the best hard slab routes in Scotland. Start as for Cupid's Bow.
1. 30m 5c Take a long curving line along a natural ramp feature to a good ledge.
2. 30m 6c Move up to gain the left-facing corner above. Climb it with increasing difficulty to the overlap. Make desperate moves leftwards under the overlap (micro cams) to gain easier ground. Pull over and follow the Missing Link weakness diagonally rightwards for 10m to a good foothold on a flake (runners). Step down and delicately move left then up to gain a flake leading into the alcove belay of Thor.
3. 50m 6b Follow the Thor diêdre for 10m to a pocket on easier ground. Hard moves up a white streak lead to a good hold (runner). Climb the flake on the left to where it dwindles, then a thin move left to a good pocket in a pink streak. Thinly up the streak to a line of pockets leading left to a corner. Pull out of the corner to a ledge and up to a line of flakes curving rightwards across the face to an impasse. Stretch right to gain the flake and follow it to a ledge (possible belay). Follow the easy line of holds for 10m diagonally left to the abseil point.
FA J.Lines, P.Thorburn (as described), 1 Aug 1999
FA A.Cunningham, A.Fyffe (P1: Pin variation start), 1990
FA R.Campbell, G.Latter (P2: Realm of the Senses), 29 Aug 1993
FA R.Campbell (P3: L'Elisir d'Amour), 23 Jul 1994
FA R.Campbell, J.Lines (P3: Hard Lines), 20 Jul 1996 © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Effectively the completion of the line of Realm of the Senses, linking it into L'Elisir d'Amore and the Hard Lines finish to give one of the hardest and best slab routes in the country.

Ticklists

Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , 4 Star Scottish rock , Ultimate Scottish Rock , Wired Scottish Rock Climbs ****

Feedback Always Hide βeta

There are no ascents logged for this climb.