UKC

260m. No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists

Hard Rock, Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, Ultimate Scottish Rock, Robin Smith Legacy, Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes, UK Extreme Corners, Ultimate E1 ticklist, The Great Mountain Crags of Scotland, Caff's Cool E1s List, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Great Scottish E1 Mountain Routes, Big Routes, Scottish Rock Benchmarks, EUMC - Must do climbs, Hard Rock 2020, The E1 UK Roadtrip, Hard Rock 2020, STAUMC Ticklist, Scottish Climbing Best 10 E1 list?, GAWyllie's Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5, Gary's Ticklist HVS-E2, Must climb at crags, RGU Shelterstone, UK 21, Scottish Four Star Multi Pitch Routes to E2 (and Old Man Of Hoy)

Feedback

User Date Notes
noskki 23 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Block at the end of the thin finger crack has prob been loose for a long time. Stay clear, don't put gear behind it. Some comments on route: P4 (steep 5b cracks. After second bulging crack step right onto a grassy triangular ledge. From the right hand edge of this ledge the crack for thin fingers is visible in bright orange of cleaned granite above and right) At the apex (of the triangular ledge) some cracks and flakes lead right. follow this line to a grassy platform ~20m. Belay here or traverse back left to a second higher platform for the belay. From this last one the crack for thin fingers is clearly visible right above. After the finger crack step right and climb blocks and grassy ledges in a right trending line. Maybe step left for a belay. But again the pitch leading to the needle crack/chimney is visible above and right). We belayed at the start of these cleaned granite cracks...
 
Show beta
βeta: Block at the end of the thin finger crack has prob been loose for a long time. Stay clear, don't put gear behind it. Some comments on route: P4 (steep 5b cracks. After second bulging crack step right onto a grassy triangular ledge. From the right hand edge of this ledge the crack for thin fingers is visible in bright orange of cleaned granite above and right) At the apex (of the triangular ledge) some cracks and flakes lead right. follow this line to a grassy platform ~20m. Belay here or traverse back left to a second higher platform for the belay. From this last one the crack for thin fingers is clearly visible right above. After the finger crack step right and climb blocks and grassy ledges in a right trending line. Maybe step left for a belay. But again the pitch leading to the needle crack/chimney is visible above and right). We belayed at the start of these cleaned granite cracks...
Macleod 19 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Seconding concerns about the block atop the crack for thin fingers. It sounds very hollow.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Seconding concerns about the block atop the crack for thin fingers. It sounds very hollow.
Kike Kikon 20 Jun Show βeta
βeta: The first pitch is more like a bold 5a. We bypassed the hideous bouldery move over the orange leap by climbing the cracks on the left. Nicer, mildly easier and far safer. Also we used full set of nuts and offsets, a full set of cams up to BD #2, including a few small Aliens (useful!), and doubling #0.5 and #1
 
Show beta
βeta: The first pitch is more like a bold 5a. We bypassed the hideous bouldery move over the orange leap by climbing the cracks on the left. Nicer, mildly easier and far safer. Also we used full set of nuts and offsets, a full set of cams up to BD #2, including a few small Aliens (useful!), and doubling #0.5 and #1
oliver_tippett 17 Jun Show βeta
βeta: The block directly above the crack for thin fingers is terminally loose. Take care as it is a very welcome jug, but any significant outward pull on it would probably cause it to topple off onto you (not good). I think the safest bet would be for someone to dislodge it, as it could cause a lot of harm…
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The block directly above the crack for thin fingers is terminally loose. Take care as it is a very welcome jug, but any significant outward pull on it would probably cause it to topple off onto you (not good). I think the safest bet would be for someone to dislodge it, as it could cause a lot of harm…
Rikardo 2 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Superb rock, very similar to coarse grit. I had the 1st 5b pitch which felt a little bold for a section but great climbing. Plenty of gear, especially on the 2nd 5b pitch (1 set of wires and double up on cams from Grey to Gold dragons/Camelot’s). A tremendous setting.
 
Show beta
βeta: Superb rock, very similar to coarse grit. I had the 1st 5b pitch which felt a little bold for a section but great climbing. Plenty of gear, especially on the 2nd 5b pitch (1 set of wires and double up on cams from Grey to Gold dragons/Camelot’s). A tremendous setting.

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
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Votes cast 80
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Votes cast 80
Votes cast 82
Style of Ascent
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Route of Interest

The Devil's Alternative

Grade: E1 5a ***
(Hell's Lum)
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