UKC Logbook - 'The Needle'

260m. No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists

Hard Rock , Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice , Ultimate Scottish Rock , Robin Smith Legacy , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , UK Extreme Corners , Ultimate E1 ticklist , The Great Mountain Crags of Scotland , Caff's Cool E1s List , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Great Scottish E1 Mountain Routes , Big Routes , Scottish Rock Benchmarks , EUMC - Must do climbs , Hard Rock 2020 , The E1 UK Roadtrip , Hard Rock 2020 , STAUMC Ticklist , Scottish Climbing Best 10 E1 list? , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , Gary's Ticklist HVS-E2 , Must climb at crags , RGU Shelterstone , Scottish Four Star Multi Pitch Routes to E2 (and Old Man Of Hoy) , Scottish Hard Rock 2020 , 4 Star Scottish rock , Dan's Scottish Summer Hopefuls , Summer Climbing Trip , Gary Latter's Ticklist (Extremes) , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist , Carrotte's summer sends (multi pitch edition) , Scotland climbing

Feedback Always Hide βeta

User	Date		Notes
Jacktheclimber	1 Oct	Show βeta βeta: P2 very bold	βeta?
Show beta βeta: P2 very bold
RobbieTaylor	5 Sep	Show βeta βeta: Block at the top of the crack for thin fingers is still nicely perched waiting to be sent flying The massive flake/ block at the base of the crack for thin fingers also has a decent amount of movement	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Block at the top of the crack for thin fingers is still nicely perched waiting to be sent flying The massive flake/ block at the base of the crack for thin fingers also has a decent amount of movement
MichaelG	19 Jun	Show βeta βeta: The jug at the top of the crack for thin fingers is still there but could definitely come away with an outward pull (don’t put gear behind it). It’s a big bit of rock and could cause a serious accident. Take care.
Show beta βeta: The jug at the top of the crack for thin fingers is still there but could definitely come away with an outward pull (don’t put gear behind it). It’s a big bit of rock and could cause a serious accident. Take care.
art.gertner	13 Sep, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Block on top of the finger crack is still there and as reported by others is indeed loose as of 2022-09-10
Show beta βeta: Block on top of the finger crack is still there and as reported by others is indeed loose as of 2022-09-10
MC.	13 Aug, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Crackin day out and making the most of the August heatwave. Third time around for me and found the crack for thin fingers a bitty more challenging this time around, age? Never! Louise and Ted\'s first time and I was blessed with good company. First time in leaving sacks at the top, would recommend it, a pity I couldn\'t talk to youth many years ago! Grand day!
Show beta βeta: Crackin day out and making the most of the August heatwave. Third time around for me and found the crack for thin fingers a bitty more challenging this time around, age? Never! Louise and Ted's first time and I was blessed with good company. First time in leaving sacks at the top, would recommend it, a pity I couldn't talk to youth many years ago! Grand day!
noskki	28 Sep, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Block at the end of the thin finger crack has prob been loose for a long time. Stay clear, don't put gear behind it. Some comments on route: P4 (steep 5b cracks. After second bulging crack step right onto a grassy triangular ledge. From the right hand edge of this ledge the crack for thin fingers is visible in bright orange of cleaned granite above and right) At the apex (of the triangular ledge) some cracks and flakes lead right. follow this line to a grassy platform ~20m. Belay here or traverse back left to a second higher platform (directly above the triangular grass ledge). From this last one the crack for thin fingers is clearly visible right above. After the finger crack step right and climb blocks and grassy ledges in a right trending line. Maybe step left for a belay. But again the pitch leading to the needle crack/chimney is visible above and right). We belayed at the start of these cleaned granite cracks...
Show beta βeta: Block at the end of the thin finger crack has prob been loose for a long time. Stay clear, don't put gear behind it. Some comments on route: P4 (steep 5b cracks. After second bulging crack step right onto a grassy triangular ledge. From the right hand edge of this ledge the crack for thin fingers is visible in bright orange of cleaned granite above and right) At the apex (of the triangular ledge) some cracks and flakes lead right. follow this line to a grassy platform ~20m. Belay here or traverse back left to a second higher platform (directly above the triangular grass ledge). From this last one the crack for thin fingers is clearly visible right above. After the finger crack step right and climb blocks and grassy ledges in a right trending line. Maybe step left for a belay. But again the pitch leading to the needle crack/chimney is visible above and right). We belayed at the start of these cleaned granite cracks...
Macleod	19 Jul, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Seconding concerns about the block atop the crack for thin fingers. It sounds very hollow.
Show beta βeta: Seconding concerns about the block atop the crack for thin fingers. It sounds very hollow.
Kike Kikon	20 Jun, 2021	Show βeta βeta: The first pitch is more like a bold 5a. We bypassed the hideous bouldery move over the orange leap by climbing the cracks on the left. Nicer, mildly easier and far safer. Also we used full set of nuts and offsets, a full set of cams up to BD #2, including a few small Aliens (useful!), and doubling #0.5 and #1
Show beta βeta: The first pitch is more like a bold 5a. We bypassed the hideous bouldery move over the orange leap by climbing the cracks on the left. Nicer, mildly easier and far safer. Also we used full set of nuts and offsets, a full set of cams up to BD #2, including a few small Aliens (useful!), and doubling #0.5 and #1
oliver_tippett	17 Jun, 2021	Show βeta βeta: The block directly above the crack for thin fingers is terminally loose. Take care as it is a very welcome jug, but any significant outward pull on it would probably cause it to topple off onto you (not good). I think the safest bet would be for someone to dislodge it, as it could cause a lot of harm…	βeta?
Show beta βeta: The block directly above the crack for thin fingers is terminally loose. Take care as it is a very welcome jug, but any significant outward pull on it would probably cause it to topple off onto you (not good). I think the safest bet would be for someone to dislodge it, as it could cause a lot of harm…
Rikardo	2 Sep, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Superb rock, very similar to coarse grit. I had the 1st 5b pitch which felt a little bold for a section but great climbing. Plenty of gear, especially on the 2nd 5b pitch (1 set of wires and double up on cams from Grey to Gold dragons/Camelot’s). A tremendous setting.
Show beta βeta: Superb rock, very similar to coarse grit. I had the 1st 5b pitch which felt a little bold for a section but great climbing. Plenty of gear, especially on the 2nd 5b pitch (1 set of wires and double up on cams from Grey to Gold dragons/Camelot’s). A tremendous setting.