Rockfax Description
70m. This route takes the striking crack-line near the right margin of the slabs and gives very fine sustained climbing. Climbed the same month as Steeple but a very different style of climbing. Start high on the Low Ledge below the crack.
1. 35m 5b Climb the crack directly up the wall to a stance. Continue up the crack, crossing an awkward bulge, then go slightly right and continue to a good thread belay.
2. 35m 5b Climb an overhanging wall to reach, then follow the continuously interesting crack to the High Ledge.
R.Carrington, J.Gardiner (1PA, 1NA), Aug1968 B.Campbell-Kelly, M.Kosterlitz (FFA), 1970s © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The prominent vertical crackline near the right edge of the slabs. Scramble up to beneath the crack. 1, 35m 5b Follow the crack (possible belay at 20m) through an awkward bulge high up then slightly right and direct to a thread belay. 2, 35m 5b Continue in the same line up the steep wall above the belay then the fine crack above.
This route was given a good clean, tat replaced and krabs left at belays/abs in June 2011.
R Carrington, J Gardner (2PA) Aug/1968.
Extreme Rock , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , Ultimate E2 ticklist , 3 and 4 star E2 5b routes in Scotland , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , Ultimate Scottish Rock , A.P's summer , Lairig hitlist , Carrotte's summer sends (multi pitch edition)
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Grade: E2 5c ***
(Shelterstone Crag)