UKC

20m.

Rockfax Description
Climb up to and then tackle the steep flake (not easy to protect) by sustained climbing until it is possible to mantelshelf onto a good ledge. Finish up the groove behind and wonder where the left wall of the one-time chimney went to! © Rockfax

FA. Arthur Birtwistle 1940s.

Ticklists

Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs

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User Date Notes
Oliver Johnson2000 10 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The finger-crack at the bottom is trickier than a ‘Severe’ but there are plenty of holds on the flake until the (2nd) ledge. Above the ledge is the crux which helps if you have a decent reach (I’m 6ft 2in). Lots of room on the stance however is grassed over and sloping. To protect the retreat from the stance, I strongly suggest placing a hex in a crack above the stance, clip a loose sling into it whilst dismantling the anchor and scramble off. MIND THE BIG HOLE TO THE LEFT!
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βeta: The finger-crack at the bottom is trickier than a ‘Severe’ but there are plenty of holds on the flake until the (2nd) ledge. Above the ledge is the crux which helps if you have a decent reach (I’m 6ft 2in). Lots of room on the stance however is grassed over and sloping. To protect the retreat from the stance, I strongly suggest placing a hex in a crack above the stance, clip a loose sling into it whilst dismantling the anchor and scramble off. MIND THE BIG HOLE TO THE LEFT!
Simon Caldwell 11 Aug, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Much harder if you're wearing a helmet!
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βeta: Much harder if you're wearing a helmet!

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High HS
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Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 46
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Mid 4b
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High 4a
Mid 4a
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High 3c
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Low 3c
Votes cast 44
Votes cast 49
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

Black Hawk Hell Crack

Grade: S 4a ***
(Stanage Popular)
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