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20m.

Rockfax Description
A classic with hard climbing, good runners and some lo-o-ong reaches. Climb a crack to a flat roof then stretch left to a thin crack and climb this (hard) to a ledge on the arete. A large Friend might be found of use hereabouts. Make difficult moves into a cave (often dirty) and then easier - at least for the tall - moves out of it. The short may have to avoid this last section on the left. © Rockfax

FA. Mike Simpkins 1960s. FFA. John Allen 1975.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors), Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, On Peak Rock, John Allen (gritstone) megamix

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User Date Notes
steveb2006 6 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The friend 4 placement is off route to the left in a grassy niche - it needs extending quite a bit. Cant see how anything smaller would fit unless you bury it deep in the crack. If you are feeling brave and ethical you can leave the friend 4 behind - there are reasonable small wire placements in a little horizontal crack at the foot of the crux wall. As for me I felt happier with the friend 4 in as I didnt think the top wall was a piece of piss (Maybe if your very tall it is!).
βeta?
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βeta: The friend 4 placement is off route to the left in a grassy niche - it needs extending quite a bit. Cant see how anything smaller would fit unless you bury it deep in the crack. If you are feeling brave and ethical you can leave the friend 4 behind - there are reasonable small wire placements in a little horizontal crack at the foot of the crux wall. As for me I felt happier with the friend 4 in as I didnt think the top wall was a piece of piss (Maybe if your very tall it is!).
Chris Shorter 15 May, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: One big piece is useful to stick in the crack above the cave before committing to the crux moves up the wall to the right. Friend 4 or something a bit bigger will do.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: One big piece is useful to stick in the crack above the cave before committing to the crux moves up the wall to the right. Friend 4 or something a bit bigger will do.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 10
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 9
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Right Eliminate

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Curbar Edge)