Climbs 426
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces W
Matt clamping his way up the Yorkshire classic Red Baron (V7) © Jamie Moss
Shipley Glen is a treasure of Yorkshire climbing - it should be listed as a World Heritage Site like Saltaire down the tramway. There is pure bouldering and even some routes but the real specialty of 'The Glen' is the predominance of good old fashioned, tiny holded, old-school high balls. These are mini-routes that can test technique and commitment in equal measure. Everything can feel hard for the grade, but in a good way that will stimulate you - the perfect antidote to plastic bucket pulling.
At one time, the crag had a bit of an unsavory reputation but currently it is close to idyllic - the sylvan setting almost equals the quality of the climbing. The Sun hitting it from the West makes it good early and late in the season; the first or last stolen after work climb of many a year for many.
Pete Jackson attempted to rationalise the amazing variety on offer at Shipley Glen by encouraging contributors to mention the guides they picked the problems from. This approach has been continued, so:
CD = Cameron Duff 2000
TC = Total Climbing 2008
To borrow from Gladiator, "If you tire of Shipley Glen or start to find the climbs easy, don't worry - you're already dead!"
Park in the parking spots. Walk down.
There is a lot of broken glass around glen arête area Steve H87 - 04/Dec/12 |
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