98m, 4 pitches.
Rockfax Description
HVS. The left arete of the wall has little fixed gear.
1) 4a, 24m. Take the easiest line up the left-hand arete of the bay to a stance.
2) 5a, 24m. Follow the steep wall (run-out) to a belay. It is possible to abseil off from here in one (44m).
3) 4a, 20m. Follow the left-hand rib to another stance. There is a harder direct variation on this pitch that goes at 5a.
4) 30m. Follow easy ground up the ridge.
Descent - Traverse east along the ridge to the first notch and scramble down to a tree. From here, abseil down Lofi on the south side of the ridge. A single 60m rope will require four short abseils, or two long ones with double ropes. © Rockfax
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| energico | 20 Nov, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Regarding the walk off, just after the last pitch, there is a notch in the ridge and just below and to the right, there is a cable/via ferrata that takes one down to the base of the crag just to the west of The Cobra. This makes for a fast and safe descent and onward trek down the re entrant to the Toix Oeste car park. The climb we did today 20 November 2020: Pitch 1: This follows the arete to the left of the crag. It has little protection and there is no in situ gear, great rock and excellent friction. It ends at a bolt belay near a small tree. It's a 4. Pitch 2: This pitch I think, may have originally been traversed left for about 6 metres and then up a steep and airy groove, some old tat, for about 8metres and then back right to an airy traverse, in stu peg, for 5 metres to a good bolt and lower of pin belay, this is to the left of the first named climb in the book. Its all trad but has a couple of in situ but good pegs and some old tat. This part of the climb is probably a 5 (HVS) and much more of a trad route. Its exposed to the winds that whip round from the car park but views and positions are really good. There is loose rock in some places but nothing to write home about as the rock is generally in good nick. It's a 4c/5. Pitch 3: This leads directly up from the belay for about 8 metres, on excellent rock with sparse protection, one can trend steeply left to a small recess and then back right to easier ground to the spike and crack belay, or climb directly using the big flake as a layback, more fun! It's a 4+. Pitch 4: Good scrambling at about 3+/4 moves, sparsely bolted but can be protected. Pitch 5. Pretty much the same as pitch 3 but easier, follow the ridge to easy ground and excellent platform where there is a good bolt belay. From there one can pack up the ropes and use the ridge to find the notch previously mentioned and then down right to the via ferrata. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Regarding the walk off, just after the last pitch, there is a notch in the ridge and just below and to the right, there is a cable/via ferrata that takes one down to the base of the crag just to the west of The Cobra. This makes for a fast and safe descent and onward trek down the re entrant to the Toix Oeste car park. The climb we did today 20 November 2020: Pitch 1: This follows the arete to the left of the crag. It has little protection and there is no in situ gear, great rock and excellent friction. It ends at a bolt belay near a small tree. It's a 4. Pitch 2: This pitch I think, may have originally been traversed left for about 6 metres and then up a steep and airy groove, some old tat, for about 8metres and then back right to an airy traverse, in stu peg, for 5 metres to a good bolt and lower of pin belay, this is to the left of the first named climb in the book. Its all trad but has a couple of in situ but good pegs and some old tat. This part of the climb is probably a 5 (HVS) and much more of a trad route. Its exposed to the winds that whip round from the car park but views and positions are really good. There is loose rock in some places but nothing to write home about as the rock is generally in good nick. It's a 4c/5. Pitch 3: This leads directly up from the belay for about 8 metres, on excellent rock with sparse protection, one can trend steeply left to a small recess and then back right to easier ground to the spike and crack belay, or climb directly using the big flake as a layback, more fun! It's a 4+. Pitch 4: Good scrambling at about 3+/4 moves, sparsely bolted but can be protected. Pitch 5. Pretty much the same as pitch 3 but easier, follow the ridge to easy ground and excellent platform where there is a good bolt belay. From there one can pack up the ropes and use the ridge to find the notch previously mentioned and then down right to the via ferrata. |
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| StefanB | 10 Jan, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: The walking descent is long and involves an exposed crest. Just mentioning it, because it's described as a walking descent in a Spanish guide book. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The walking descent is long and involves an exposed crest. Just mentioning it, because it's described as a walking descent in a Spanish guide book. |
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