UKC

110m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
1) 5c, 26m. Follow black marks up the wall and through the overhangs to ledges. Avoiding the Blue Route is tricky.
2) 5c, 30m. Up the wall trending right then through the overhangs via parallel cracks and one stiff pull. Abseil off or:
3) 3, 32m. Easy ground follows threads and the black spots to the steep final wall.
4) 5+ 28m. The wall set high above everything is steep! There is an easier alternative to the left (about 3+) following many threads to the top.
Descent - Abseil back down the route or traverse the crest and make a 40m abseil down the line of Lofi (page 119 ). © Rockfax

Feedback

User Date Notes
freec 7 Nov, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The line and description given for the top pitch in the Rockfax is incorrect. Rockfax shows the top pitch immediately to the left of Cilber - there is no fixed gear here. Instead we traversed right, crossing Cilber, to where Del Plas is written on the rock.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The line and description given for the top pitch in the Rockfax is incorrect. Rockfax shows the top pitch immediately to the left of Cilber - there is no fixed gear here. Instead we traversed right, crossing Cilber, to where Del Plas is written on the rock.
Joe Harding 2 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: First pitch felt tricky and run-out, but on good rock. Got lost following the threads on the third (scrambly) pitch, and ended up finishing up Cilber instead.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First pitch felt tricky and run-out, but on good rock. Got lost following the threads on the third (scrambly) pitch, and ended up finishing up Cilber instead.
chudders1 26 Jan, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Defo 5 pitches and very hard to route read but worth doing !
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Defo 5 pitches and very hard to route read but worth doing !
Mike Weatherill 2 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: as said already - no bolts or belay station on last pitch and no in situ threads on grade 3 up the gully to the left but very easy.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: as said already - no bolts or belay station on last pitch and no in situ threads on grade 3 up the gully to the left but very easy.

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Voting
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 12
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Diedro UBSA

Grade: 5c ***
(Penon de Ifach)

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