UKC

130m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
E3. A magnificent route up the Arete, which has lots of fixed gear of variable quality. A few nuts and threads are helpful to plug the gaps, or back-up the rust!
1) 3, 15m. As for El Dorado.
2) 6a+, 35m. From the sloping ledge, move right, then carefully down-climb to gain a low traverse-line. Follow this awkwardly, staying just above the water (difficult to protect) until it is possible to climb diagonally upwards (don't climb up too soon) to a scoop which leads to the hanging stance on the Arete.
3) 6b+, 45m. Power up the Arete above, first on the left, then on the right. From the diagonal break, either traverse left to gain the grassy ramp and abseil point, or:
4) 5, 40m. Climb up the rib above to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Costa Blanca "Must Do" routes , ROCKFAX Costa Blanca: Top 50 , Costa blanca 2022

Feedback

User Date Notes
Gambit 1 Feb, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Not sure about the giudebook description for pitch 2. My partner had climbed 7B the day before and fell trying to take the low route to the belay. I tried this way and could not do it and then tried the middle way before ending up on the higher line at about 20ft above the sea.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not sure about the giudebook description for pitch 2. My partner had climbed 7B the day before and fell trying to take the low route to the belay. I tried this way and could not do it and then tried the middle way before ending up on the higher line at about 20ft above the sea.
Chad123 24 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Great route, but both pitches can feel very hard when humid and slippy. The bolts on the arete and the nasty tat don't inspire confidence . Great position though and even the traverse pitch has it's moments!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route, but both pitches can feel very hard when humid and slippy. The bolts on the arete and the nasty tat don't inspire confidence . Great position though and even the traverse pitch has it's moments!
Dnmn 11 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: the arete pitches into and out of the cave on luces nocturnas variation had reasonable fixed pro for the full length, though the bolts weren't 'new'.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: the arete pitches into and out of the cave on luces nocturnas variation had reasonable fixed pro for the full length, though the bolts weren't 'new'.

Logged Ascents

62 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Sierra de Toix

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book 33 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
DWS
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Si Se Puede

Grade: 6b+ ***
(Ambolo)

Loading Notifications...