UKC Logbook - 'Gyllion'

38m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fine series of pitches on very good rock. Good stances and protection make this an enjoyable outing.
1) 5a, 14m. Follow the thin crack-line up the wall to the left of the wide zig-zag crack. Belay on the terrace.
2) 4c, 6m. With runners in the corner-crack, climb the wall on its right to the upper terrace.
3) 4c, 15m. The long straight crack in the wall is a fitting finale. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Three pitches of perfect rock, described as a very safe line.

Ticklists

George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , 3 Star - North Wales HS - HVS

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User	Date		Notes
John Cuthbert	26 May, 2023	Show βeta βeta: This aspiring mountain classic needs to clean up its act if it wants to role with the '3 stars' brigade. Still, even at a rating of 'deux etoiles', there is much to recommend it. First off, the lovely, open countryscape ought to be commendation enough, but the rugged rhyolite is also a real pleasure for lovers of featured, tough ancient stone. All this, and the route's technicality, should prompt a more positive conclusion, but the enduring memory of the day - as others here have noted - is the idiot incompetence of guidebook misdirection that forced us into an unnecessary 2 hour bushwhack approach in stifling heat. Maybe the lesson is always to consult and preference the wisdom of UKC users rather than default to the authority of the modern guidebook. Or maybe we should just acquire a machete...
Show beta βeta: This aspiring mountain classic needs to clean up its act if it wants to role with the '3 stars' brigade. Still, even at a rating of 'deux etoiles', there is much to recommend it. First off, the lovely, open countryscape ought to be commendation enough, but the rugged rhyolite is also a real pleasure for lovers of featured, tough ancient stone. All this, and the route's technicality, should prompt a more positive conclusion, but the enduring memory of the day - as others here have noted - is the idiot incompetence of guidebook misdirection that forced us into an unnecessary 2 hour bushwhack approach in stifling heat. Maybe the lesson is always to consult and preference the wisdom of UKC users rather than default to the authority of the modern guidebook. Or maybe we should just acquire a machete...
Tom Barnett	19 Jul, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Great route and worth the approach, but it\'s an unbelievable slog. DO NOT go as the guidebook STATES, go the long way round, the far shore, and follow as many vague sheep tracks as you can. Midge City.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Great route and worth the approach, but it's an unbelievable slog. DO NOT go as the guidebook STATES, go the long way round, the far shore, and follow as many vague sheep tracks as you can. Midge City.
climbingrev	22 Sep, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Top pitch a gem.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Top pitch a gem.