UKC

Restricted Access

The crag is on private land and continued access depends on climbers maintaining our good relationship with the landowner, who runs his business from the lorry park in the quarry. Be friendly if you meet the owner or his employees and make sure you follow the new access route (details below) to avoid any problems.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

2024 - no restriction - the Raven nest on Going Straight wall does not appear to be in use this year - please report if you see any activity.

16m. Too Fat to Tag E1 5b 16m
In a bay about 40m right of all the other routes, at the extreme right side of crag. Right of an overhanging corner is a cleaned wall split by a series of discontinuous cracks. Climb this trending slightly left towards the top. Pleasantly sustained. (F.A. Nick Taylor, Gary Gibson 22.9.02)

Nick TAylor, Gary Gibson 22/Sep/2002.

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Guidebooks for Smalldale Quarry

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Route of Interest
The Traverse

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Wildcat)

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