Climbs 70
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 333m a.s.l
Faces NW

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Theo Moore on Summat Outanowt (7a) at Smalldale © Alan James

Crag features

An open quarry with an impressive 20m+ central wall and smaller, lower quality walls either side. The main wall offers excellent mileage at f7a and above on generally sound, well bolted rock (but be careful with those large flakes and overhangs!). Pick of the bunch are Lost Contact, Can Boys (both f7a) and Virtual Insanity (F7b). The routes on the short walls to the far left from Beastiality to Terry and June have a carpet of different species of orchids and other rare plants at their base (a very narrow strip of moss adhering to boulders that is easily dislodged). These are not quality routes (understatement!) and as such there must be some thought given as to whether it is worth damaging the plantlife to climb them.

Approach notes

Approaching from Peak Forest pass through Smalldale village and park on the first track leading into the brickworks on the left.

As of June 2019, the lorry park owner has requested that climbers do not approach through the lorry park due to increased usage of the park. Instead go down to the second drive just to the south. Climb over the small stone wall and go through a big black gate into the woods. Cut diagonally through the trees following a vague path to the Crystal Walls.

No Access Issues

The crag is on private land and continued access depends on climbers maintaining our good relationship with the landowner, who runs his business from the lorry park in the quarry. Be friendly if you meet the owner or his employees and make sure you follow the new access route (details below) to avoid any problems.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

The Ravens appear to have vacated the site, so the restriction has been lifted early this year (2022). Thank you for your help.

The routes on the far left from Beastiality to Terry and June are approached through a carpet of several species of orchids and other rare plants. Considering the routes (lack of ) quality I think these should not be climbed.
philhilo - 15/Jun/20
Lots of loose rock when we visited last weekend, even on the Main Wall. Belay to the side if you visit.
RosieYates - 09/May/18
The main wall has great technical climbing and sound rock but further to the right of the crag, on the easier wall - it was coming away in chunks. The Main Wall is worth a visit for sure but the rest? Never again.
mrchewy - 17/Aug/15
This crag is terrible, terrible bolting and terrible rock! At least 3 football sized blocks went today
ashtond6 - 16/Aug/15
This is a really good crag. The rock quality as good as anywhere on Peak limestone and because, for some reason, its not that popular the rock isn't the slightest bit polished. It was surprising to visit on a dry weekend in May and find only one party on the crag. Even more surprising was that none of the routes on Main Wall, the best bit, had any chalk on them. This suggests they hadn't been done this year. Most of the routes were regeared a couple of years ago I believe so no problems with the gear that I've found. It's also only 5 minutes walk from the car. Only downsides are possibly a bit midgy in the evenings (but I guess many crags in the Peak can be like that.) Midweek I think the noise from the quarry can be a little intrusive. Other than that its well worth a visit or three.
stp - 13/May/14
Was there on Saturday. Agree about the spaced bolts. Most are 3-4m apart and some considerably more than that. However the rock appeared sound where we were climbing (although it didn't look it).
John_Hat - 25/Jul/10
I wouldn't say that the routes on Going Straight Wall were "well bolted". It all depends on your definition of "well bolted" is - the bolts are in good condition or close together. The former is true but there are some spaced bolts in places.
Neil Binns - 13/Jun/05
Careful with the loose rock - almost every route I've done here has a few disposable features. My partner pulled a half-metre-long block off 'Open Season', which clattered him on the way down. Fortunately only minor injuries! Helmets and standing well back are advisable!
Carl Smethurst - 23/Aug/04
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