UKC

Rockfax Description
The long line of weakness on the left of the face is a very difficult but high quality climb. The route has always been high in the grade, however since the demise of its protection pegs it may now be E6. Start on a raised ledge left of the largest arching overhang. Climb a thin crack and slab to meet the left-trending thin crack-line and better gear. Follow the line with difficulty all the way to the top. The final 4m is slightly loose. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The pegs have now been removed on creeping flesh (Oct 14) It has now been without them...It now offers a bolder proposition requiring a more sustained effort... For any aspirant leaders it should now be approached as hard E5 (E6?) 6b the crux is much bolder without its 2 pegs and more airtime awaits those who fluff it! A good stash of rps plus 3 sets of small to med nuts up to no6 are advised along with plenty of QD's (No cams needed) Stu

Ticklists

Best slab climbs of the UK , West Country Climbs , Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist , Caff's 100 Ace E5s , Ultimate E5 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , South West in Extremis

Feedback

User Date Notes
Muzza 28 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: This route is pretty tough for E5; if it was hard for the grade with the top two pegs in it is quite possibly E6 in its current state. Natural gear is available but it is tenuous putting it in and clipping pegs would be a fair bit easier.
βeta?
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βeta: This route is pretty tough for E5; if it was hard for the grade with the top two pegs in it is quite possibly E6 in its current state. Natural gear is available but it is tenuous putting it in and clipping pegs would be a fair bit easier.
olliebenzie 18 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: There is one peg and it looks ok. It is easily backed up by small rps above
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There is one peg and it looks ok. It is easily backed up by small rps above

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 11
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 11
Style of Ascent
Toproped
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
El Draco

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Bolt Tail)

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