600m.
A more direct version of Friendly Buttress, the obvious clean buttress on the west face of Pk Korgo, towards the southern end of the canyon.
Climb the buttress direct on fantastic rock for 6 pitches. The next pitch initially takes the steep ‘V’ corner directly above, but then heads out left on a steep wall, on small holds to a knife edge crest and amazing exposure. Keep following the crest stepping right into a steep corner with strenuous moves over the top. Another 7 pitches of easier ground climbing slabs and steep rock steps leads to the top and the junction between other ribs and spurs. (Above, 200m of broken climbing and scrambling leads to the South summit of Pk Korgo.)
Descent from the Manaschi Rib – head south down scree slopes and awkward steps trending left and then right until a line can be found trending again left over steep broken and loose ground.
Some down climbing and an abseil over a steep cliff now leads to a broad scree slope and easier ground. You will then trend right back around and under the SW Spur.
Climb the buttress direct on fantastic rock for 6 pitches. The next pitch initially takes the steep ‘V’ corner directly above, but then heads out left on a steep wall, on small holds to a knife edge crest and amazing exposure. Keep following the crest stepping right into a steep corner with strenuous moves over the top. Another 7 pitches of easier ground climbing slabs and steep rock steps leads to the top and the junction between other ribs and spurs. (Above, 200m of broken climbing and scrambling leads to the South summit of Pk Korgo.)
Descent from the Manaschi Rib – head south down scree slopes and awkward steps trending left and then right until a line can be found trending again left over steep broken and loose ground.
Some down climbing and an abseil over a steep cliff now leads to a broad scree slope and easier ground. You will then trend right back around and under the SW Spur.
Nelhams/Taylor/Plackett/Clifford/Dudek 2009.
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