Restricted Access
This crag is on a live firing range and therefore subject to military bylaws. DO NOT PICK UP, KICK OR REMOVE ANY OBJECT FROM THE OTTERBURN TRAINING AREA, IT COULD KILL.
Seasonal Restrictions
Reason: Nesting Birds
The Otterburn Ragnge Control Staff are a very helpful bunch and work on the principle of facilitating access where and when it is safe to do so. SAFE is the key issue here. Make no mistake the range is potentially a very dangerous place.
The briefing process is pretty painless and allows climbers access to certain crags inside the ‘Controlled Area’. The ‘ticket’ allows the holder to take/lead a group of climbers to the venue.
Range Access is covered by Bylaws, break the rules and you risk a fine and restricting access for other climbers (As recently happened in Pembroke)
Tickets are valid for one year. When you complete the briefing you will be given a couple of maps and instructions that should be left on display in a car at the designated parking area. Note the Range Staff refer to Linshiels as the Barrow Hill Climbing Area.
The crags affected by these bylaws/regulations are: Huel Crag, Great Dour, Linshiels and South Yardhope. There is some ambiguity regarding the boundary shown on the 1:25000 OS Map. This is for the ‘Danger Area’ only. However, the Range Control Area encompasses all of these crags and their outlying blocks. (I have highlighted this on the attached map, curtesy of Northumberland National Park and Defence Estates)
So, to visit any of the crags, regardless of the flag status:
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You or one of your party must have attended a Range Safety Briefing in the last year and have a parking display sheet.
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Check the firing status: https://www.gov.uk/.../publications/otterburn-firing-times.
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Call Range Control: 01830 520569, provide details/timings etc and get their approval. (Or not). Even if there is firing, it’s worth calling the Range Control Office as the firing may not affect the location you want to visit.
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Call Range Control when you and your party/group depart.
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Do not lift and go through any barrier that is down. That means the road is closed. (They are left unlocked so emergency vehicles can get through.
Do not touch anything..
9m.
The obvious flaky wall above The Arete traverse, climbed directly with some trepidation. Can be protected with some cunning, and thus made low in the grade. Worth two stars - 3 star climbing but minus one star for the fragile rock.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Louise Prentice | 18 Aug, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: Bold but brilliant climbing. The flakes are delicate and dubious, adding further spice to the run out. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Bold but brilliant climbing. The flakes are delicate and dubious, adding further spice to the run out. |
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Route of Interest
On the Verge
Grade: E4 6a ***
(Back Bowden Doors)