UKC

40m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A secluded route that takes a good line up the clean face.
1) 5b, 20m. Weave up the lower wall to a notch in the main overhang. Pull over right onto the wall above then climb to the break. Move left to belay below a flake.
2) 5b, 20m. Move back right along the break then pull up left onto the wall. Trend right to gain a crack which leads to the upper break. Move right here then pull up and finish direct. © Rockfax

FA. (Pitch 1) S.Monks, D.Carroll 19.8.1984. FA. (Pitch 2) P.Littlejohn, C.Heard 11.5.1980.

Ticklists

UK Lonely Leads , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs

Feedback

User Date Notes
Rick Sewards 2 Jan Show βeta
βeta: I think both pitches (and especially the second pitch) are much longer than the 20 metres given by Rockfax - the CC guide gives 27m and 34m which seemed more accurate. I think this would be superb as a single pitch (with a big enough rack) avoiding the descending detour left to below, but I reckon you\'d need 60 metre ropes to do it safely that way (I did it in two as described). Whichever way it\'s done, I think it\'s a fantastic route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I think both pitches (and especially the second pitch) are much longer than the 20 metres given by Rockfax - the CC guide gives 27m and 34m which seemed more accurate. I think this would be superb as a single pitch (with a big enough rack) avoiding the descending detour left to below, but I reckon you'd need 60 metre ropes to do it safely that way (I did it in two as described). Whichever way it's done, I think it's a fantastic route.
Misha 3 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: P1: from a good ledge at the high tide line (possible belay), go up and slightly right to below the hanging slab, then do some unlikely looking moves left and up to stand up below the roof. Move left to below the triangular niche, from where an obvious handline leads round the lip of the roof. Have faith in what lies beyond and you will be rewarded with jugs (easier for the tall). The straightforward slab above leads to a belay above a huge flake (red cam and small wires above). [The comprehensive says to go left then right to the niche but the rock and gear are poor.] P2: follow the foot ledge until it runs out, then climb up and left onto a small ledge. Go up and right to reach a discontinuous crack which slants slightly leftwards. Follow this to a large break running up right. Step right for few moves to gain height before traversing left into a shallow scoop and going straight up for the last few moves. Most of this pitch broadly follows the ab rope if you drop it down from a large thread.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: P1: from a good ledge at the high tide line (possible belay), go up and slightly right to below the hanging slab, then do some unlikely looking moves left and up to stand up below the roof. Move left to below the triangular niche, from where an obvious handline leads round the lip of the roof. Have faith in what lies beyond and you will be rewarded with jugs (easier for the tall). The straightforward slab above leads to a belay above a huge flake (red cam and small wires above). [The comprehensive says to go left then right to the niche but the rock and gear are poor.] P2: follow the foot ledge until it runs out, then climb up and left onto a small ledge. Go up and right to reach a discontinuous crack which slants slightly leftwards. Follow this to a large break running up right. Step right for few moves to gain height before traversing left into a shallow scoop and going straight up for the last few moves. Most of this pitch broadly follows the ab rope if you drop it down from a large thread.

Logged Ascents

35 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Space Buttress

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 9 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 13
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
First Blood

Grade: E2 5c ***
(St. Govan's East)

Loading Notifications...