110m, 6 pitches.
A magnificent line taking the obvious left edge of the headland. From the rock strewn platform scramble down to sea level and then climb onto the face up to a large white ledge and down to a smaller black ledge just above high water mark near the left arete of the cliff. (about V.Diff)
1. 70ft Climb the crack line directly above the ledge.
2. 70ft Move right up a chimney and step onto the top of a pinnacle. Move back left up a groove to a poor stance.Peg belays.
3. 40ft (crux)Move left and climb the steep,greasy,but well protected crack to a good recessed stance. peg belay.
4. 20ft Make an exposed traverse left and climb a steep wall(thread)to a good ledge. Bong belay.
5. 100ft Step right and climb a steep groove which leads to easier rock. Follow this, bearing slightly left(no protection)to a stance on the ridge.
6. 70ft Move right and climb to the top on good rock with little difficulty.
1. 70ft Climb the crack line directly above the ledge.
2. 70ft Move right up a chimney and step onto the top of a pinnacle. Move back left up a groove to a poor stance.Peg belays.
3. 40ft (crux)Move left and climb the steep,greasy,but well protected crack to a good recessed stance. peg belay.
4. 20ft Make an exposed traverse left and climb a steep wall(thread)to a good ledge. Bong belay.
5. 100ft Step right and climb a steep groove which leads to easier rock. Follow this, bearing slightly left(no protection)to a stance on the ridge.
6. 70ft Move right and climb to the top on good rock with little difficulty.
J.Watson, W.Cheverst 06/May/1972.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Joe Treanor | 5 Jul |
Show βeta
βeta: Be aware - a fair amount of loose rock as this route doesnt get much traffic. I did a lot of cleaning on my way up but don’t trust anything too much! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Be aware - a fair amount of loose rock as this route doesnt get much traffic. I did a lot of cleaning on my way up but don’t trust anything too much! |
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Route of Interest
Torque Test
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(The Chasms)