A good but serious climb up the central and highest point of the face. Starting at the right hand edge of the rock strewn platform.
1. 80ft Climb trending right up a steep wall,move left to peg belay below overhang.
2. 60ft Turn the overhang on its right to reach a diagonal black crack which is followed to the left,then up right to grass ledge and peg belay about 20ft below a prominent overhang.
3. 100ft Climb to a point just right of overhang. Move right and up the edge of an earthy scoop untill it is possible to move left onto the steep wall. Up this to a grassy amphitheatre-Theatre Royal. Peg belay on right.
4. 120ft A fine pitch up the left waal of the amphitheatre. Walk across grass to the left and climb a pedestal. The pockmarked wall above is climbed moving right untill a delicate traverse leads back to the left edge. Continue up past a grass ledge then ascend a traversing line rightwards across a loose wall untill an overhung ledge is reached. Move left along this until an exposed break through the overhang leads suddenly to the top.
1. 80ft Climb trending right up a steep wall,move left to peg belay below overhang.
2. 60ft Turn the overhang on its right to reach a diagonal black crack which is followed to the left,then up right to grass ledge and peg belay about 20ft below a prominent overhang.
3. 100ft Climb to a point just right of overhang. Move right and up the edge of an earthy scoop untill it is possible to move left onto the steep wall. Up this to a grassy amphitheatre-Theatre Royal. Peg belay on right.
4. 120ft A fine pitch up the left waal of the amphitheatre. Walk across grass to the left and climb a pedestal. The pockmarked wall above is climbed moving right untill a delicate traverse leads back to the left edge. Continue up past a grass ledge then ascend a traversing line rightwards across a loose wall untill an overhung ledge is reached. Move left along this until an exposed break through the overhang leads suddenly to the top.
M.Thomas. R.B.Evans May/1972.
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Route of Interest
Mylrea
Grade: VS 4b ***
(The Chasms)