UKC

Also known as Via Leni. Superb. Also known as the Leni route with the Erwin variation. The climb ascends the great pinnacle of the Plattenturm by its front face in five classic and intricate pitches. It features delicate slabs, steep cracks and a bulging crux (pitch 2) suited for taller climbers. There are a couple of 5c moves towards the end of the first pitch - but aid is close to hand if you needed. Bolt belays throughout and lots of installed protection. Take quickdraws and medium nuts.
Access: Pretty much as for Leni Links. Five minutes from the Albigna dam. Get up to the base of the Plattenturm directly below its summit. Red paint marks the start.
Description: (Treat with caution.)
1. 5c 25m. Ascend the slab heading right to gain a small ramp and use it to get over a small overhang.
2. 5c 25m. (Could be A0 if you aid the crux.) From the right side of the slab cross over towards the left under an overhang and, almost where it ends, climb over it and gain a stance.
3. 5c 30m. Climb up a slab, then go horizontally right to a crack; climb up this and then go right again to a small dièdre that is climbed to gain a stance on the right.
4. 5c 25m. Climb up on the right from the stance to a flake and up this and continue up a curving dièdre.
5. 5c+ 45m. Climb directly to a small dièdre, then up a chimney to a terrace; go right via vertical flakes, then climb via a slab under the top of the tower up to a grassy saddle.
Descent: As for Leni Links using the gully on the left of the Plattenturm or abseil back down the face.

E. Frei, Erwin Kilch?r and Siffredo Negrini, 1981 - who added to the original route ascended by J?ri Bardell, Vital Eggenberger and Peter M?ller, 15 September 1978. 15/Sep/1978.

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Voting
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Dente per Dente

Grade: 6a ***
(Spazzacaldera)

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