Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Nick G going for it on the flash © gi
Old quarry now preserved by the Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust as an 'isolated wild place'. Single pitch routes to 30 metres.
It is recommended to find the route you wish to climb from the top, ab off, do the route and climb out again. The main reason for this is that the quarry floor is impenetrable brambles so hacking your way to a route costs time and blood. Whilst on the abseil youll have a chance to clean the route a bit before hand. Some routes are ok, but areas around 'Athletes Arete' (athletes something anyway) VS are slimey as hell after rain. [Mat 11/03]
Climbing allowed from August to February inclusive restricted to the marked areas shown in the guide book. All other climbing forbidden.
Drive north out of Parkend, and turn left onto the B4234, signposted Lydbrook. After about a mile, park the car in a good lay-by on the left just opposite the Forest of Dean Stonefirms works on the right. Take the hard-surfaced Forestry track (the old tramroad) following the telegraph posts numbered in descending order from 29. After another mile, immediately beyond post 11, turn back sharp left on a grassy track. After a short rise this levels out, and the quarry perimeter fence is soon encountered on the right.
It can also be reached from the lay by opposite the recycling centre, max.15 minute walk in.
Dates: 1 March to 31 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
The quarry is leased from the Forestry Commission by Gloucester Wildlife Trust and managed as a nature reserve. Sections of the crag (usually vegetated) are not open for climbing - see p.264/5 of the Wye Valley Guide (CC 1998) for details. The crag is no longer subject to spring nesting restrictions as described in the guidebook.
|Hi, has anybody been to this quarry recently, I have been there today, followed the instructions in the guide book and all we found was an over grown small quarry with probably a few 30' climbs nothing like the guide book, the quarry that we were in looks like it was all collapsed, tried following the route from the recycling center and came back to the same place, was I in the right place or not??? can anyone help.
Jools050670 - 02/Aug/15
|First visit to the crag at the weekend - the central tower is spectacular. Bottom of the crag is still clean, but take car - there are huge holes covered with leaves waiting to swallow ankles and legs - worth taking a boulder mat if you think you might fall off low down to cover these.
whenry - 08/Nov/13
|The current description for the crag (about the brambles and abbing in to do the routes) is no longer true atall - the bottom of the quarry is clear of vegetation and easy to get into, and with a little more traffic the routes will be sparkling clean (we cleaned and climbed all major lines there over a couple of visits). The climbing is absolutely amazing, the wall is impressive and imposing and the rock is good, if a little dusty at the moment, but will only get cleaner with a bit more traffic. If you climb E grades then get yourselves down there!
Mike Goldthorp - 07/Jun/12
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