UKC

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

The quarry is leased from the Forestry Commission by Gloucester Wildlife Trust and managed as a nature reserve. Sections of the crag (usually vegetated) are not open for climbing - see p.264/5 of the Wye Valley Guide (CC 1998) for details. The crag is no longer subject to spring nesting restrictions as described in the guidebook.

30m. Well protected, sustained, strenuous and brilliant climbing. Starts to the right of Love Story on the next block right of the flat topped one. Climb the wall, past a wide break and two pegs to a diagonal undercut flake (peg). A series of hard moves continues up to a thin crack and better footholds (drilled peg). Continue on up the headwall (three more pegs) to the wide break at the top (original insitu bong). Mantel over to finish.

Matt Ward, Martin Crocker.

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Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Dogged
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Howitzer

Grade: E6 6c ***
(Hope Mansel)

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