UKC

25m.

Rockfax Description
Immaculate wall climbing described here with the popular direct and logical upper variation. Start 6m left of a small shallow cave at ground level below a thin right-leaning crack. Pull up to a small hand ledge just left of the crack and move left and stretch for a positive pocket, bolt above. Climb directly to a good break and continue in the same line on incut holds to a wider horizontal break and large cam placement. Pull straight up the wall above and finish steeply on good holds. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The route starts at the base of the L-R 45 degree crack (although it is not followed.) Climb straight up to a huge hold, which is traversed to the left until it is possible to reach a large pocket above. A series of moves on more pockets leads to a rest in a large horizontal break, this is then traversed rightwards until you reach a short corner, which is then climbed until it is possible to find a line to the top on some variably loose holds.

R Harrison, R A Broomhead 09/May/1980.

Ticklists

Littlejohn South West Climbs , Trad climbs for sport climbers , The post lockdown local list , South West in Extremis , Cianchi's Hit List

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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Ahimsa

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Cheddar Gorge South)

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