Rockfax Description
Immaculate wall climbing described here with the popular direct and logical upper variation. Start 6m left of a small shallow cave at ground level below a thin right-leaning crack. Pull up to a small hand ledge just left of the crack and move left and stretch for a positive pocket, bolt above. Climb directly to a good break and continue in the same line on incut holds to a wider horizontal break and large cam placement. Pull straight up the wall above and finish steeply on good holds. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The route starts at the base of the L-R 45 degree crack (although it is not followed.) Climb straight up to a huge hold, which is traversed to the left until it is possible to reach a large pocket above. A series of moves on more pockets leads to a rest in a large horizontal break, this is then traversed rightwards until you reach a short corner, which is then climbed until it is possible to find a line to the top on some variably loose holds.

R Harrison, R A Broomhead 09/May/1980.


Littlejohn South West Climbs , Trad climbs for sport climbers , The post lockdown local list , South West in Extremis


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Guidebooks for Split Rock (Milton Hill Quarry)

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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 17
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 16
Style of Ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Crow (WW)

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Cheddar Gorge South)

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