Immaculate wall-climbing described here with the now popular direct and logical upper variation. Start 6m left of a small shallow cave at ground level below a thin right-leaning crack.Pull up to a small hand-ledge just left of the crack and move left and stretch for a positive pocket, bolt above. Climb directly to a good break and continue in the same line on incut holds to a wider horizontal break and large cam placement. Pull straight up the wall above and finish steeply on good holds. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The route starts at the base of the L-R 45 degree crack (although it is not followed.) Climb straight up to a huge hold, which is traversed to the left until it is possible to reach a large pocket above. A series of moves on more pockets leads to a rest in a large horizontal break, this is then traversed rightwards until you reach a short corner, which is then climbed until it is possible to find a line to the top on some variably loose holds.
R Harrison, R A Broomhead 09/May/1980.
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