A classic mixture of the bold and technical gives a memorable pitch. Start below a narrow ledge at 8m with a bolt just under its lip. Climb the smooth, pocketed initial wall to gain the bolt and narrow ledge at 8m - bold. Make an awkward mantelshelf move onto the ledge, and from its left-hand side, make some fingery moves up and left to join a thin crack and some good nut placements. Follow the crack to a resting ledge before tackling the thin continuation seam and crack via some technical and fingery moves to a lower-off just below the top. © Rockfax
P Smith, R Cary May/1983.
Littlejohn South West Climbs
Trad climbs for sport climbers
West Country Climbs
Ultimate E5 ticklist
Stanners lifetime Onsight attempt list
South West in Extremis
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Grade: E5 6a ***
(Cheddar Gorge South)
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