150m, 5 pitches.
UPDATE 5 JUNE 2011
Members of Skye MRT were able to clear up any obviously loose blocks last Saturday. Many thanks to them from many on UKC I'm sure.
Talking in detail with one member it seems that anything left currently seems solid enough to justify an ascent but caution and delicacy is clearly still crucial. In particular there are 2 large flakes that may seem suitable for laybacking but the leverage involved would not be a good idea. Removing these clearly was not deemed suitable/possible but weathering effects of rain, wind and freeze may change this over the coming seasons. As a result I have added more caution to the description.
Cìoch Direct 150m Severe * (1907)
This classic line has a number of areas of loose rock that must be treated with extreme caution. It follows the obvious main fault splitting the Lower Buttress starting at the bottom left edge of the face.
1. 25m Climb the open chimney-gully which is often damp in the back.
2. 40m Follow a long easy groove then two chimneys to a large sloping ledge at
the base of an overhanging chimney. Try to avoid belaying immediately below.
3. 20m There is particularly loose rock at the start of this pitch. The tight chimney gives an awkward crux which is best climbed without a
rucsac. Continue up the cracks above until just below a small overhung nose.
4. 35m Follow a sloping shelf up and left passing a jumble of boulders (care; the
protruding Yardarm fell off in 2000) and a slab to twin cracks.
5. 30m Climb the twin cracks then easy climbing to the Terrace.
Full details of belaying out of the line would have been too wordy but apparently there is a single old peg on the left and more natural gear a further few feet left again.
Members of Skye MRT were able to clear up any obviously loose blocks last Saturday. Many thanks to them from many on UKC I'm sure.
Talking in detail with one member it seems that anything left currently seems solid enough to justify an ascent but caution and delicacy is clearly still crucial. In particular there are 2 large flakes that may seem suitable for laybacking but the leverage involved would not be a good idea. Removing these clearly was not deemed suitable/possible but weathering effects of rain, wind and freeze may change this over the coming seasons. As a result I have added more caution to the description.
Cìoch Direct 150m Severe * (1907)
This classic line has a number of areas of loose rock that must be treated with extreme caution. It follows the obvious main fault splitting the Lower Buttress starting at the bottom left edge of the face.
1. 25m Climb the open chimney-gully which is often damp in the back.
2. 40m Follow a long easy groove then two chimneys to a large sloping ledge at
the base of an overhanging chimney. Try to avoid belaying immediately below.
3. 20m There is particularly loose rock at the start of this pitch. The tight chimney gives an awkward crux which is best climbed without a
rucsac. Continue up the cracks above until just below a small overhung nose.
4. 35m Follow a sloping shelf up and left passing a jumble of boulders (care; the
protruding Yardarm fell off in 2000) and a slab to twin cracks.
5. 30m Climb the twin cracks then easy climbing to the Terrace.
Full details of belaying out of the line would have been too wordy but apparently there is a single old peg on the left and more natural gear a further few feet left again.
Ticklists
Classic Rock , Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , Scottish Classic Rock , Mountaineering in Scotland: in the footsteps of WH Murray , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , The Big Easy Mountain Route Club , North West to do , Scotland climbing , Weird Rock , Road Trip summer 2025
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| PaulJepson | 7 May |
Show βeta
βeta: A few wobblers in the crux chimney pitch and a lot of massive loose blocks (primed to slide) about 20m into pitch 4. Go very steady and they can be avoided but it is a matter of 'when' not 'if' another major accident happens. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: A few wobblers in the crux chimney pitch and a lot of massive loose blocks (primed to slide) about 20m into pitch 4. Go very steady and they can be avoided but it is a matter of 'when' not 'if' another major accident happens. |
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| rowanbrandreth | 19 Apr |
Show βeta
βeta: Actually drier than expected after reading comments. Yes it\'s perma-wet, but there are lots of feet and protection is excellent. Heed the advice on no backpack! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Actually drier than expected after reading comments. Yes it's perma-wet, but there are lots of feet and protection is excellent. Heed the advice on no backpack! |
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| Mich Mash | 1 Jun, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: Having no rucksack would have made progress easier. One to leave at least one bag at the bottom - easily retrieved with a gulley descent. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Having no rucksack would have made progress easier. One to leave at least one bag at the bottom - easily retrieved with a gulley descent. |
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| robert7249 | 30 Apr, 2023 |
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βeta: A wet grim strenuous struggle classic | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A wet grim strenuous struggle classic |
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| robert7249 | 30 Apr, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: A wet grim strenuous struggle classic | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A wet grim strenuous struggle classic |
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| jon1001 | 11 Sep, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: All pretty solid except pitch 4 but fairly easy to avoid. Go easy. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: All pretty solid except pitch 4 but fairly easy to avoid. Go easy. |
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| Jim\'llClimbIt | 12 Mar, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: The chain you belay on the way down is in a bit of an awkward place below the cioch platform . | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The chain you belay on the way down is in a bit of an awkward place below the cioch platform . |
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| Swamp-Guinea | 31 Aug, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Excellent route on perfect rock. The crux chimney is quite a challenge when wearing a rucksack. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Excellent route on perfect rock. The crux chimney is quite a challenge when wearing a rucksack. |
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| masa-alpin | 24 Sep, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: P3 is 30m (after 40m P2, which could be extended). P4: Turn the small overhung nose above the belay from left. P5: \"Twin Cracks\" are a couple of metres apart and may not look like \"twin\". | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: P3 is 30m (after 40m P2, which could be extended). P4: Turn the small overhung nose above the belay from left. P5: "Twin Cracks" are a couple of metres apart and may not look like "twin". |
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Route of Interest
Commando Crack
Grade: HS 4b ***
(Sgùrr Alasdair)