150m, 5 pitches.
UPDATE 5 JUNE 2011
Members of Skye MRT were able to clear up any obviously loose blocks last Saturday. Many thanks to them from many on UKC I'm sure.
Talking in detail with one member it seems that anything left currently seems solid enough to justify an ascent but caution and delicacy is clearly still crucial. In particular there are 2 large flakes that may seem suitable for laybacking but the leverage involved would not be a good idea. Removing these clearly was not deemed suitable/possible but weathering effects of rain, wind and freeze may change this over the coming seasons. As a result I have added more caution to the description.
Cìoch Direct 150m Severe * (1907)
This classic line has a number of areas of loose rock that must be treated with extreme caution. It follows the obvious main fault splitting the Lower Buttress starting at the bottom left edge of the face.
1. 25m Climb the open chimney-gully which is often damp in the back.
2. 40m Follow a long easy groove then two chimneys to a large sloping ledge at
the base of an overhanging chimney. Try to avoid belaying immediately below.
3. 20m There is particularly loose rock at the start of this pitch. The tight chimney gives an awkward crux which is best climbed without a
rucsac. Continue up the cracks above until just below a small overhung nose.
4. 35m Follow a sloping shelf up and left passing a jumble of boulders (care; the
protruding Yardarm fell off in 2000) and a slab to twin cracks.
5. 30m Climb the twin cracks then easy climbing to the Terrace.
Full details of belaying out of the line would have been too wordy but apparently there is a single old peg on the left and more natural gear a further few feet left again.
Members of Skye MRT were able to clear up any obviously loose blocks last Saturday. Many thanks to them from many on UKC I'm sure.
Talking in detail with one member it seems that anything left currently seems solid enough to justify an ascent but caution and delicacy is clearly still crucial. In particular there are 2 large flakes that may seem suitable for laybacking but the leverage involved would not be a good idea. Removing these clearly was not deemed suitable/possible but weathering effects of rain, wind and freeze may change this over the coming seasons. As a result I have added more caution to the description.
Cìoch Direct 150m Severe * (1907)
This classic line has a number of areas of loose rock that must be treated with extreme caution. It follows the obvious main fault splitting the Lower Buttress starting at the bottom left edge of the face.
1. 25m Climb the open chimney-gully which is often damp in the back.
2. 40m Follow a long easy groove then two chimneys to a large sloping ledge at
the base of an overhanging chimney. Try to avoid belaying immediately below.
3. 20m There is particularly loose rock at the start of this pitch. The tight chimney gives an awkward crux which is best climbed without a
rucsac. Continue up the cracks above until just below a small overhung nose.
4. 35m Follow a sloping shelf up and left passing a jumble of boulders (care; the
protruding Yardarm fell off in 2000) and a slab to twin cracks.
5. 30m Climb the twin cracks then easy climbing to the Terrace.
Full details of belaying out of the line would have been too wordy but apparently there is a single old peg on the left and more natural gear a further few feet left again.
Ticklists
Classic Rock , Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , Scottish Classic Rock , Mountaineering in Scotland: in the footsteps of WH Murray , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , The Big Easy Mountain Route Club , North West to do , Scotland climbing
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| robert7249 | 30 Apr |
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βeta: A wet grim strenuous struggle classic | βeta? | |
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βeta: A wet grim strenuous struggle classic |
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| robert7249 | 30 Apr |
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βeta: A wet grim strenuous struggle classic | βeta? | |
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βeta: A wet grim strenuous struggle classic |
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| jon1001 | 11 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: All pretty solid except pitch 4 but fairly easy to avoid. Go easy. | βeta? | |
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βeta: All pretty solid except pitch 4 but fairly easy to avoid. Go easy. |
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| Jim\'llClimbIt | 12 Mar, 2022 |
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βeta: The chain you belay on the way down is in a bit of an awkward place below the cioch platform . | βeta? | |
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βeta: The chain you belay on the way down is in a bit of an awkward place below the cioch platform . |
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| Swamp-Guinea | 31 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: Excellent route on perfect rock. The crux chimney is quite a challenge when wearing a rucksack. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Excellent route on perfect rock. The crux chimney is quite a challenge when wearing a rucksack. |
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| masa-alpin | 24 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: P3 is 30m (after 40m P2, which could be extended). P4: Turn the small overhung nose above the belay from left. P5: \"Twin Cracks\" are a couple of metres apart and may not look like \"twin\". | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: P3 is 30m (after 40m P2, which could be extended). P4: Turn the small overhung nose above the belay from left. P5: "Twin Cracks" are a couple of metres apart and may not look like "twin". |
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Route of Interest
Slanting Gully
Grade: S ***
(Sgurr a' Mhadaidh)