Rockfax Description
175m. A superb but serious climb easily identified by a pair of cracks at the base.
1. 40m 4c Climb the left-hand jam crack to step up left on a nose and follow a slabby corner past flakes to a ledge.
2. 35m Continue up a very pleasant chimney and cracks to the base of a steeper slab. Traverse right to a ledge and climb the steep crack (the off-width crack mentioned in Cìoch West). Traverse cracked slabs right for 10m then ascend easily to the foot of an undercut square corner at the base of the steep wall. Belay beside a large loose flake.
3. 40m 5a The route attacks the unlikely wall above, often identified by signs of retreat. The corner is undercut by loose rock that can be avoided. Gain the corner and solid rock with some relief. Pull out left onto a slabby wall then climb steadily to the steepening groove above. Now a series of poorly protected steps (old peg, crux) to a large broken spike runner. Climb the bulge above by undercut flakes, taking care with a cuddly jug above. Step up right to a fine ledge on Cìoch West. A serious pitch with numerous, if suspect, options for protection.
4, 5. 75m As for Cìoch West.
FA D.Gregory, R.Hutchison, 27 Jul 1958 © Rockfax

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