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215m, 7 pitches. P1-There are 2 spike belays, one @ 40m and one @ 50m
The Off-width description on p2 is mis-leading. A better description is- "P2 Continue up the groove for 20m to reach a huge flake on the RHS. Traverse up and right across the face of the flake (bold) to reach blocks in the crevasse above. Easily traverse 10m right to a grassy ledge.
P4- After the crux traverse it saves a lot of contortions to continue above the ledge up the steep wall mentioned as the start of P5. A good alloy peg (in situ) is well placed to allow belaying back in view of the crux.
Followed completely the route ends on the Cioch by Cioch Nose rte. Those wanting to climb Arrow Route should traverse left (30m) after the long easy section of scrambling described as a variation to p7
Cracking route. Started off with a heavily caffeinated drive to Glen Brittle at 2:30am.
Finished just before the rain hit. Will nabbed the hero pitch so I duly responded by dropping his nuts partway down the crag.
Good fun
Cracking route. Started off with a heavily caffeinated drive to Glen Brittle at 2:30am.
Finished just before the rain hit. Will nabbed the hero pitch so I duly responded by dropping his nuts partway down the crag.
Good fun
So good! Steve and I just split it into 5 rope-length pitches, so I got the awesome P1 chimney and super awesome P3 crux cracks (we later found out this actually wasn’t the correct way to go, but it was well polished, so feel others make this mistake rather than wherever the airy traverse and godsend pocket are), also the nice P5 balancey slab. Sadly Steve got very lost on P2 route finding so didn’t get to do the layback but ultimately very awesome. Loved every move- total variety of all styles. Would like to do the leads the other way around next time, see where we end up lol.
So good! Steve and I just split it into 5 rope-length pitches, so I got the awesome P1 chimney and super awesome P3 crux cracks (we later found out this actually wasn’t the correct way to go, but it was well polished, so feel others make this mistake rather than wherever the airy traverse and godsend pocket are), also the nice P5 balancey slab. Sadly Steve got very lost on P2 route finding so didn’t get to do the layback but ultimately very awesome. Loved every move- total variety of all styles. Would like to do the leads the other way around next time, see where we end up lol.
Superb mountaineering route in glorious sunshine. Continued up onto Cioch via Cioch Nose. Had both routes to ourselves but quite a queue for Integrity. Interesting descent from the Cioch mind....
Superb mountaineering route in glorious sunshine. Continued up onto Cioch via Cioch Nose. Had both routes to ourselves but quite a queue for Integrity. Interesting descent from the Cioch mind....
A lovely route with some degree of exposure and some thought provoking moves and tricky route finding.
My advice is to ignore the guide book description as it's pretty much hopeless after pitch one and follow what polish there is and you'll have a great time.
with Luke
A lovely route with some degree of exposure and some thought provoking moves and tricky route finding.
My advice is to ignore the guide book description as it's pretty much hopeless after pitch one and follow what polish there is and you'll have a great time.
Went slightly off-route leading on second pitch- traversing right across tricky slab before easy ledge. Felt more like HS 4b/c here! Crux on pitch 4 excellent. Final pitch with slight overhang which David ended up having to lead. Having followed his footwork, would probably be able to lead this pitch in future.
Went slightly off-route leading on second pitch- traversing right across tricky slab before easy ledge. Felt more like HS 4b/c here! Crux on pitch 4 excellent. Final pitch with slight overhang which David ended up having to lead. Having followed his footwork, would probably be able to lead this pitch in future.
Fantastic route.
Went slightly off route after crux of p3 (went up instead of walking right) and ended up doing some hard, unprotected moves. Got a bit lost in the top 2 easy pitches as well. Finished on Arrow Route and the Cioch.
Fantastic route.
Went slightly off route after crux of p3 (went up instead of walking right) and ended up doing some hard, unprotected moves. Got a bit lost in the top 2 easy pitches as well. Finished on Arrow Route and the Cioch.
Our first, and as it turned out, only climb on Skye. Very hot and sunny, only to be replaced by rain for the rest of the trip. Caroline led odd pitches, I led even.
Our first, and as it turned out, only climb on Skye. Very hot and sunny, only to be replaced by rain for the rest of the trip. Caroline led odd pitches, I led even.
Went slightly off route towards end of first pitch in search of "off width variant" . Climbed to rusty peg then traversed right to a belay on Crembo Cracks possibly ?
with Jim
Went slightly off route towards end of first pitch in search of "off width variant" . Climbed to rusty peg then traversed right to a belay on Crembo Cracks possibly ?
Lead pitches 1,3,5 and second half of 6 (ended up doing it in 8 pitches). Missed the blindingly obvious grassy ledges on pitch 3 and had to downclimb the slabs! Traverse on pitch 5 definitely the highlight.
Lead pitches 1,3,5 and second half of 6 (ended up doing it in 8 pitches). Missed the blindingly obvious grassy ledges on pitch 3 and had to downclimb the slabs! Traverse on pitch 5 definitely the highlight.
Led P2, P4 (crux) and P6. Went straight up the steep wall onto the right hand end of the ledge at the top of P4, which felt harder than 4a with tiny holds and a mantelshelf top out - possibly should have taken more of a rising hand traverse which apparently has a big jug at the end of it. Very exciting though! Start of P7 felt tough for the grade and the route-finding throughout is quite adventurous. Climbed with big rucksacks and finished in baking hot evening sun. One of the best routes I've climbed, as much for the setting as anything else.
with Dave Clark
Led P2, P4 (crux) and P6. Went straight up the steep wall onto the right hand end of the ledge at the top of P4, which felt harder than 4a with tiny holds and a mantelshelf top out - possibly should have taken more of a rising hand traverse which apparently has a big jug at the end of it. Very exciting though! Start of P7 felt tough for the grade and the route-finding throughout is quite adventurous. Climbed with big rucksacks and finished in baking hot evening sun. One of the best routes I've climbed, as much for the setting as anything else.
GREAT ROUTE. Beautiful views, nice easy but interesting climbing with lots of gear - definitely worth doing if you fancy a relaxing picturesque day out.
215/240m route (depending on guide) of 8 pitches. I did the first, Adam did 2nd and alternated from there.
Mostly easy with some interesting and optional hand jams. Nothing scary and some pitches are just scrambling. Best bit was where I lead up onto the ledge by accident instead of the hand traverse, very interesting corner crack with a mantle onto a sloping foot deep ledge (same ledge as hand traverse puts you onto)
GREAT ROUTE. Beautiful views, nice easy but interesting climbing with lots of gear - definitely worth doing if you fancy a relaxing picturesque day out.
215/240m route (depending on guide) of 8 pitches. I did the first, Adam did 2nd and alternated from there.
Mostly easy with some interesting and optional hand jams. Nothing scary and some pitches are just scrambling. Best bit was where I lead up onto the ledge by accident instead of the hand traverse, very interesting corner crack with a mantle onto a sloping foot deep ledge (same ledge as hand traverse puts you onto)
Led all Pictches, last in the rain which stopped the link up attempt. Booooo! Nice climbing with easy route finding, bomber belays and magnificent situations!
Led all Pictches, last in the rain which stopped the link up attempt. Booooo! Nice climbing with easy route finding, bomber belays and magnificent situations!
Climbed with Bob Dawson after an initial attempt was curtailed because of a serious accident on Cioch Direct 3 days previously. Very average weather, windy, cold and damp!
with Bob Dawson
Climbed with Bob Dawson after an initial attempt was curtailed because of a serious accident on Cioch Direct 3 days previously. Very average weather, windy, cold and damp!
would say severe as per smc guidebook - lead all pitches on perfect sunny day, amazing route, lovley climbing on good rock - massive crux pitch exposure on jugs, purely brilliant!
with sam webb
would say severe as per smc guidebook - lead all pitches on perfect sunny day, amazing route, lovley climbing on good rock - massive crux pitch exposure on jugs, purely brilliant!
A good route but found route finding difficult. Ended up doing the crux move of Crembo Cracks past the rusty Peg Runner up to the slabs above which is listed as HVS 5a (although a bit low in the grade).
A good route but found route finding difficult. Ended up doing the crux move of Crembo Cracks past the rusty Peg Runner up to the slabs above which is listed as HVS 5a (although a bit low in the grade).
dislodged a big rock on pitch 6. Mashed one of our ropes through to the core, bad times. A fairly convincing argument for climbing with twin ropes though!
dislodged a big rock on pitch 6. Mashed one of our ropes through to the core, bad times. A fairly convincing argument for climbing with twin ropes though!
Climbed 1 pitch which was streaming with water, in big boots. Decided that due to the amount of time taken for that pitch it would be a bit ambitious to do 11 pitches in the same conditions, and called it a day! Gutting as the weather was dry, but there was a lot of runoff from previous days/weeks.
with Colin Gunning
Climbed 1 pitch which was streaming with water, in big boots. Decided that due to the amount of time taken for that pitch it would be a bit ambitious to do 11 pitches in the same conditions, and called it a day! Gutting as the weather was dry, but there was a lot of runoff from previous days/weeks.
About right at Severe as in the new guide. Led P2,3,6. Accidentally ran 2&3 together by climbing the corner above what should have been the 2nd belay. But this is part of the HVS.
About right at Severe as in the new guide. Led P2,3,6. Accidentally ran 2&3 together by climbing the corner above what should have been the 2nd belay. But this is part of the HVS.
The traverse about half way up was very exciting! Much relief when reaching belay ledge. This route deserves more than one star and I think is hard vd if not s.
with Rita McElwain
The traverse about half way up was very exciting! Much relief when reaching belay ledge. This route deserves more than one star and I think is hard vd if not s.
We got one pitch up and the heavens opened! I believe the cioch was up there somewhere, but we couldn't see it, even at the top of the climb. And we couldn't find the descent path, so abbed off...through a waterfall. And then the rope got stuck.
That was the best weather we had that week. The following night the tent got blown down!
We got one pitch up and the heavens opened! I believe the cioch was up there somewhere, but we couldn't see it, even at the top of the climb. And we couldn't find the descent path, so abbed off...through a waterfall. And then the rope got stuck.
That was the best weather we had that week. The following night the tent got blown down!
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