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The upper cliff had some good trad climbing that is worth looking at if the swell is affecting other areas of the Swanage cliffs. A steady head is needed to deal with the odd loose section of rock but is often better than it looks. One nut crack area has some friendly routes to get you started. The Yellow wall is a big adventure in its self and see few assents, but when the evening light is on it looks amazing.

The boulder field is worth making the long trek with pads to explore, just take it steady down the steep entry slopes.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Restrictions apply from Pier Bottom (the valley north of St Aldhem's Head) to the east arete of The Yellow Wall and from Buttery Corner (the point at which the undercliff below St. Aldhelm's Head gives way to seacliff) to Slippery Ledge.

Rockfax Description
The large crack to a finishing jug next to the chockstone. © Rockfax

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User Date Notes
Ivan Kileff 3 Dec, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The chockstone is now gone
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βeta: The chockstone is now gone

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for St. Aldhelm's Head

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Voting
High f5+
Mid f5+
Low f5+
High f5
Mid f5
Low f5
High f4+
Mid f4+
Low f4+
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 1
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Unknown Crack

Grade: f5 ***
(Longstone Ope)

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