UKC

Restricted Access

The main bolted areas (Apiary Wall and Scabby Back) are unrestricted. All other areas of the crag including Fisherman's Steps are restricted.

There was a landslide on the steep descent to the north of the lighthouse in November 2021 causing damage to the bolt anchors and fixed ropes. The recommended alternative descent is by the easier route further north. The Fishermans steps is another alternative to the south but this is only recommended to those who are really happy with strenuous and exposed descents. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The area has very important Guillemot, Kitttiwake, and Razorbill breeding colonies and The RSPB have stipulated no access to the area south (right) of the route Army Screamers between the above dates.

Other restricted St Bees areas:

  • St. Bees Far South Boulders - South of Fisherman's Steps / "Fishermans Dyno Boulder
  • St. Bees Head South - sectors beyond "Cryptozoo" and the cliff top access path

Access to Fleswick Bay is permitted all year round, but only south of the inlet where the path meets the shore.

At South Head the small bouldering area is only accessible outside the nesting season.

Rockfax Description
One the best at the crag. The super steep overhang dotted wall is very sustained but with mostly accommodating holds.. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Classic UK F7s , Lakes Sport and Slate Top 50

Feedback

User Date Notes
petegunn 4 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: New chain lower off added to the classic Dreaming of Red Rocks 2.6.22
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: New chain lower off added to the classic Dreaming of Red Rocks 2.6.22
Shackleton121 4 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route, bit gritty so probably first ascent of the year. Lots of little pockets and really enjoyable
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic route, bit gritty so probably first ascent of the year. Lots of little pockets and really enjoyable

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for St. Bees Head

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Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 29
Votes cast 26
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Crystal Maze

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Hodge Close Quarry)

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