Rockfax Description
75m. Good climbing on the crest where the face turns, followed by a superbly sustained final pitch on excellent rock. Start in the bay as for the previous routes.
1. 25m 4b Climb the clean wall and bulge on the right to a layback crack and follow this past a wide crack on the right to a ledge. Continue left up easier broken ground to the ledge at the start of the corner of November Groove.
2. 20m 5a Traverse right and climb cracks in the slabby rib until a difficult step up is made on the arĂȘte. Blocks and cracks lead to a belay.
3. 30m 5b A left-leaning crack leads to a ledge. From its right end climb the steep corner-line above with difficulty until an awkward move leads left on to a ledge. Finish up the crack.
J.R.Mackenzie, G.Cullen, M.Selwood (as described), 1980s
FA M.G.Anderson, G.Mair, 26 Aug 1964 © Rockfax
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User | Date | Notes | ||
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benrhyd | 3 May |
Show βeta
βeta: Wired guide is wrong for p2, the guide says to go right, but the route steps left to go up the slab | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Wired guide is wrong for p2, the guide says to go right, but the route steps left to go up the slab |
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Macleod | 15 Sep, 2023 |
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βeta: As others have said - don't traverse directly into the choss on P2 (like I did, and reversed). Instead, trend gently right on the right wall bounding November grooves and head for the arete (November grooves P1 has two ledges at its top - trend right from the higher one). | ||
Show beta
βeta: As others have said - don't traverse directly into the choss on P2 (like I did, and reversed). Instead, trend gently right on the right wall bounding November grooves and head for the arete (November grooves P1 has two ledges at its top - trend right from the higher one). |
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jcarrot | 4 Jun, 2023 |
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βeta: Gray Latter description very confusing. The obvious line follows the first pitch of November grooves then steps right of NG chimney onto a rib with obvious crack. This leads to a large shelf with last pitch as described by Gary. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Gray Latter description very confusing. The obvious line follows the first pitch of November grooves then steps right of NG chimney onto a rib with obvious crack. This leads to a large shelf with last pitch as described by Gary. |
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Sarah Byrne | 13 May, 2023 |
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βeta: lead 2nd pitch - last pitch felt very tricky ..glad I didn't have to lead that ! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: lead 2nd pitch - last pitch felt very tricky ..glad I didn't have to lead that ! |
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TeddyC | 6 May, 2022 |
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βeta: I left a hip flash below this route, if anyone finds it then please give me a shout | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I left a hip flash below this route, if anyone finds it then please give me a shout |
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Duncan McCallum | 18 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: 1st Pitch has some loose bits, but is ok. 2nd Pitch, super airy and brilliant apart from a TV sized block near the top which is not attached. 3rd, is full on Trad stylie, jams, bridging, hard moves for the grade and a mantle (belly flop) towards the top. Some loose rock on ledges as normal. Followed November Groove P1 for 30m then belayed. | ||
Show beta
βeta: 1st Pitch has some loose bits, but is ok. 2nd Pitch, super airy and brilliant apart from a TV sized block near the top which is not attached. 3rd, is full on Trad stylie, jams, bridging, hard moves for the grade and a mantle (belly flop) towards the top. Some loose rock on ledges as normal. Followed November Groove P1 for 30m then belayed. |
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steveb2006 | 3 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: The problem with the Gary Latter guide description is that you need to do the WHOLE of November Groove pitch 1 (35m), not just the first 24m. From the NG belay the description and length (21m) of p2 then makes perfect sense. Alternatively you could belay at the block/pinnacle after 24m. If so p2 would be - climb up R into a groove (mossy rock) and up to bulges (5a climbing)- step L round rib to join the normal pitch 2 (cracks up slabby rib) and continue to stance/ledge below p3 - a 35m pitch - described as JtR Direct in the main SMC guide. | ||
Show beta
βeta: The problem with the Gary Latter guide description is that you need to do the WHOLE of November Groove pitch 1 (35m), not just the first 24m. From the NG belay the description and length (21m) of p2 then makes perfect sense. Alternatively you could belay at the block/pinnacle after 24m. If so p2 would be - climb up R into a groove (mossy rock) and up to bulges (5a climbing)- step L round rib to join the normal pitch 2 (cracks up slabby rib) and continue to stance/ledge below p3 - a 35m pitch - described as JtR Direct in the main SMC guide. |
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hs138 | 18 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Followed the description of the Latter guide which takes you too far right onto a loose E2. The first pitch is the same as for November Grooves. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Followed the description of the Latter guide which takes you too far right onto a loose E2. The first pitch is the same as for November Grooves. |
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Grade: E1 5c ***
(Sheigra Sea Cliffs)