FA. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 21/Aug/1990.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing | 15 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: The CC guidebook description doesn’t feel 100% accurate (or helpful), so here’s a few addition comments which should help people on their way. Where it says ‘easier climbing leads to a break, thread runner’ it’s not actually any easier - it’s actually quite hard - and the in-situ threads are in quite a poor state (sorry, didn’t manage to replace them, but they’re easily backed up anyway). Above, once on the small ledge out right, it says to take an ‘easier angled wall above’, which sounds pretty innocuous. I’d say to wander up the vague, bold, and boomy wall above, giving it the respect it deserves (tread carefully and keep searching around for gear - it’s there, just). At the very top continue up the runnel, as per the description. Whilst it may look tempting out left it’s loose and extremely dangerous. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The CC guidebook description doesn’t feel 100% accurate (or helpful), so here’s a few addition comments which should help people on their way. Where it says ‘easier climbing leads to a break, thread runner’ it’s not actually any easier - it’s actually quite hard - and the in-situ threads are in quite a poor state (sorry, didn’t manage to replace them, but they’re easily backed up anyway). Above, once on the small ledge out right, it says to take an ‘easier angled wall above’, which sounds pretty innocuous. I’d say to wander up the vague, bold, and boomy wall above, giving it the respect it deserves (tread carefully and keep searching around for gear - it’s there, just). At the very top continue up the runnel, as per the description. Whilst it may look tempting out left it’s loose and extremely dangerous. |
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Grade: E3 5b ***
(Mother Carey's Kitchen)