UKC

36m. No description has been contributed for this climb.

FA. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 21/Aug/1990.

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User Date Notes
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 15 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The CC guidebook description doesn’t feel 100% accurate (or helpful), so here’s a few addition comments which should help people on their way. Where it says ‘easier climbing leads to a break, thread runner’ it’s not actually any easier - it’s actually quite hard - and the in-situ threads are in quite a poor state (sorry, didn’t manage to replace them, but they’re easily backed up anyway). Above, once on the small ledge out right, it says to take an ‘easier angled wall above’, which sounds pretty innocuous. I’d say to wander up the vague, bold, and boomy wall above, giving it the respect it deserves (tread carefully and keep searching around for gear - it’s there, just). At the very top continue up the runnel, as per the description. Whilst it may look tempting out left it’s loose and extremely dangerous.
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βeta: The CC guidebook description doesn’t feel 100% accurate (or helpful), so here’s a few addition comments which should help people on their way. Where it says ‘easier climbing leads to a break, thread runner’ it’s not actually any easier - it’s actually quite hard - and the in-situ threads are in quite a poor state (sorry, didn’t manage to replace them, but they’re easily backed up anyway). Above, once on the small ledge out right, it says to take an ‘easier angled wall above’, which sounds pretty innocuous. I’d say to wander up the vague, bold, and boomy wall above, giving it the respect it deserves (tread carefully and keep searching around for gear - it’s there, just). At the very top continue up the runnel, as per the description. Whilst it may look tempting out left it’s loose and extremely dangerous.

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Guidebooks for Stackpole Head

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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 4
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 3
Route of Interest
Brazen Buttress Direct Finish

Grade: E3 5b ***
(Mother Carey's Kitchen)

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