UKC

Climbs 151
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 460m a.s.l
Faces NE

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Cathy's Clown (E2) at Staden © Alan James

Crag features

Important note: In 2022 there was a Kestrel nest just around the arete from Suscipiat, please avoid if there in future.

 

A fine traditional climbing venue concentrated on two main faces of good quality, weathered limestone in an otherwise chossy quarry. Routes between 17 and 25m, mostly vertical/off vertical with good protection in the HVS to E3 range. Joint Effort Wall has the best routes; e.g. Joint Effort (HVS 5b), The Nails (HVS 5b), Liquid Courage (E1 5b) and the brilliant Cathy's Clown (E2 5c). Recommended on the the left-hand section are Bicycle Repair Man (E1 5b) and Telescopic Demand (E3 6a).

Approach notes

Limited parking at a specific spot in Cowdale (SK 084722, past first houses on right, space where road swings left) Cowdale is reached from the A6 Bakewell to Buxton Rd.

Lower Quarry - As for Staden Main Quarry. But head through the field in the direction of the A6 till you reach a gate, cross this and down the track  to a ruin the quarry is obvious on the left.

Update this Crag
Last updated on 26/Aug/2025

Access Advice

The landowner have made the BMC aware that they do not support climbing at the quarry, as is evident from the on site signage.

Anyone choosing to climb please keep your impact low - park sensibly, remove litter, keep noise to a minimum and leave if requested to. Please report any significant nesting activity on routes to the BMC (particularly ravens, peregrines, or kestrels). 

The BMC strongly advise against bringing dogs to this crag. The land below the crag is used to graze cattle, this has to be crossed to reach the rock and has no barrier between the the field and the climbs. There have been incidents of cows attacking climbers here and the presence of dogs increases this risk. All climbers should be aware of the danger from cows and how to minimise the associated risks.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 21 May to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Kestrels have previously been reported nesting at the left hand end of Joint Effort wall. No reports have been received to date this year.

Click here for RAD Access Notes
Last update: 26/08/2025  

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Someone got attacked and savaged by the cows this eve. Recommend being very careful around them during this time of year when they have young calfs. Seemed okay (hope so anyway) but took a bit of a pasting. Not a great crag to have dogs at for this reason. There is also some drilling operation going on in the middle of the meadow and 'no climbing' signs have popped up all over the place. Seems like future access is at risk and Nestle are up to something.
PaulJepson - 30/Jul/24
Peregrine nest at the top of Suscipiat on joint effort wall
Fraser hill-casey - 08/May/22
Peregrine nest in cracks above abseil point on the bolted routes to the left of joint effort. Avoid until fledged.
jakej - 11/Aug/21
Cows have not been let loose on the field to graze for quite some time. If you suffer from bad hayfever avoid on a high pollen day or take extreme precautions. I was basically rendered useless on my last visit! The quarry acts like a pollen bowl.
Dominicgriff - 02/Jul/19
...and High Tor.
Jonny2vests - 15/Jan/10
Certainly an above average crag, we only picked only the obvious classics but all had nice non-strenuous techie moves on quality rock with good holds and gear. I'll defo return for the other ticks. Bit of a shame to visit on a sunny day tho, brrr.
Owen W-G - 28/Sep/09
...apart from chee tor and malham. and gordale. and avon.
martin k - 22/Jun/06
By far the best inland trad limestone in the country. Much more like a sea-cliff or mountain slab than the usual choss.
Fiend - 10/Jun/06
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