UKC Logbook - 'Staffin Classic (a.k.a. Kilt Classic)'

40m. Memorable climbing up the steep chimney on the right side of the large tapering pillar. Ascend the widening crack "with considerable interest" to belay on top of the pillar. Reasonably protected due to small cracks in the right wall. Quite clean after an ascent in late July 2014. Originally named Kilt Classic.

Bill Birkett and Ed Grindley 12/Aug/1987.

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User	Date		Notes
Dr Toph	17 Aug	Show βeta βeta: WARNING - I ab'ed the route to give it a clean (coule of pretty large flakes trundled) and while most of the route is in decent shape, the top pinnacle (which forms the left side of the upper chimney) moves perceptably with a gentle shove at the top. I estimate its a 10m x 1m needle balanced on a 45deg fracture, with signs of recent shattering. By that point on the route you are in the squeeze chimney with your back on the pinnacle, pressing it away from the cliff. It might have been like this for years, but it gives me the willies.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: WARNING - I ab'ed the route to give it a clean (coule of pretty large flakes trundled) and while most of the route is in decent shape, the top pinnacle (which forms the left side of the upper chimney) moves perceptably with a gentle shove at the top. I estimate its a 10m x 1m needle balanced on a 45deg fracture, with signs of recent shattering. By that point on the route you are in the squeeze chimney with your back on the pinnacle, pressing it away from the cliff. It might have been like this for years, but it gives me the willies.
Monsieur Surplomb	30 Jul	Show βeta βeta: Perhaps best to belay from the top of the pillar to keep the second in good view, then swing leads for the short grass and heather mound to the very top where a good horizontal crack on a boulder can support another belay.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Perhaps best to belay from the top of the pillar to keep the second in good view, then swing leads for the short grass and heather mound to the very top where a good horizontal crack on a boulder can support another belay.