UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

Rockfax Description
From sitting, pull up the leaning arete to a jug. Rock right from here to finish. The left-hand finish is f7A. © Rockfax

Ticklists

The Black Circuit - Stanage , Animals of the Peak , Grit ambitions , Winter Boulders 2022/23 , JDs Gritstone Guide , 2023 Winter Motivation , Peak Boulders To Try

Feedback

User Date Notes
ajhclimbing 13 Jan Show βeta
βeta: RH finish
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: RH finish
climberinspace 18 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Just didn\'t quite get it. Need more skin and better conditions. A little sharp and awkward to start, but classic grit arete clamping.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Just didn't quite get it. Need more skin and better conditions. A little sharp and awkward to start, but classic grit arete clamping.
Carlos Montero 27 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: No way this is 6C+
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: No way this is 6C+

Logged Ascents

198 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation

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Voting
High f7A
Mid f7A
Low f7A
High f6C+
Mid f6C+
Low f6C+
High f6C
Mid f6C
Low f6C
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 22
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Alt Leads
Not Set
Redpoint
DNF
Flashed (β)
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
G-Thang Sit-start

Grade: f6C+ ***
(Gardom's Edge)

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