Rockfax Description
Climb the right-hand edge of the slab then reach the hanging groove by a traverse from the right. Enter it by a puzzling layback sequence then bung in some gear and sprint to safety. The hardest of the old Stanage Extremes. © Rockfax
FA. Pat Fearneough 1961-63.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Stanage E2 Challenge (1989 Guide) , Post-lockdown Peak jamming hoedown , 1964 Stanage Guide Extremes , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Blake | 12 Jun, 2022 |
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βeta: Just about getting in the red zone when decent gear and holds finally come. I took a couple of ‘ledge sweepers’ before I worked the crux out, after crux I reckon I’d have been picking bilberries out my arse. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Just about getting in the red zone when decent gear and holds finally come. I took a couple of ‘ledge sweepers’ before I worked the crux out, after crux I reckon I’d have been picking bilberries out my arse. |
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| GeorgiePorgie1 | 10 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: Agreed with the long reach to enter the groove and you can't cheat your way around it either! Right hand jam as far left as possible before the reach helps! My partner complained about the jams being tough to establish, but I thought they were pretty solid. Perhaps is down to hand size, as it usually is. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Agreed with the long reach to enter the groove and you can't cheat your way around it either! Right hand jam as far left as possible before the reach helps! My partner complained about the jams being tough to establish, but I thought they were pretty solid. Perhaps is down to hand size, as it usually is. |
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| NuclearNev | 29 Jul, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: The crux starting move from the break is manicly reachy. Im 5'9" and could only reach the lower part of the layback hold (which i subsequently let go of when i fell off). | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The crux starting move from the break is manicly reachy. Im 5'9" and could only reach the lower part of the layback hold (which i subsequently let go of when i fell off). |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation
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Scoop Wall
Grade: E2 5c ***
(Stoney Middleton)