UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

10m.

Rockfax Description
The flaky right side of the block leads to a swing left to reach its top. Finish easily. Unprotected where it matters. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Eastern Grit E1s

Feedback

User Date Notes
philhilo 21 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Dont fall off this.
Show beta
βeta: Dont fall off this.
Mick B 19 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Soloed this, tales of yankee power and bastille. All felt equally hard. Forget about gear, the flake moves too much and will never hold a fall. All good routes to solo.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Soloed this, tales of yankee power and bastille. All felt equally hard. Forget about gear, the flake moves too much and will never hold a fall. All good routes to solo.
Tom Randall - Lattice Training 6 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Definintely as hard as Tales of Yankee Power - soloed both of them and would swap the grades around.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Definintely as hard as Tales of Yankee Power - soloed both of them and would swap the grades around.
ste 29 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: ended up moving left a bit above dodgy flake, protected by a skyhook as i didnt want to put gear behind the flake and risk it coming off with the gear. stupid route and not worth looking at considering what else there is at stanage.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: ended up moving left a bit above dodgy flake, protected by a skyhook as i didnt want to put gear behind the flake and risk it coming off with the gear. stupid route and not worth looking at considering what else there is at stanage.
The Grist 19 Aug, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: I agree too. Dodgy wobbly flake holding an alien and a nut and a potential ground fall from the less than obvious crux. Best avoided.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I agree too. Dodgy wobbly flake holding an alien and a nut and a potential ground fall from the less than obvious crux. Best avoided.
Stuart S 24 Jun, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Agree with Nick's comments. No worthwhile gear and a crux at about half height above a less than perfect landing suggest that this one might be closer to E1.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Agree with Nick's comments. No worthwhile gear and a crux at about half height above a less than perfect landing suggest that this one might be closer to E1.
Nick Smith - Climbers 16 May, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: This one left me baffled! Dodgy gear behind the loose flake, and then ???
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This one left me baffled! Dodgy gear behind the loose flake, and then ???

Logged Ascents

110 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 9
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Soloed
Toproped
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Tower Chimney

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Stanage Plantation)

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