UKC

18m.

Rockfax Description
Devious and worthwhile. Climb Paradise Wall to just below where the right-hand crack ends, then traverse right all the way to the exposed arete and finish up this. © Rockfax

FA. Alan Clarke 1962.

Ticklists

Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Stanage Plantation , Severe Stanage , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
milanboez 16 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Delicate traverse and huge run out to the top - brilliant climb though great variety and positions. Definitely not low VS!!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Delicate traverse and huge run out to the top - brilliant climb though great variety and positions. Definitely not low VS!!!
PaulJepson 11 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: If you want to be friendly to your second and are climbing on halves, you can put a re-direct on a bomber wire above Paradise Wall and give them a baby-bouncer for the traverse. No swinging required.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If you want to be friendly to your second and are climbing on halves, you can put a re-direct on a bomber wire above Paradise Wall and give them a baby-bouncer for the traverse. No swinging required.

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 84
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 84
Votes cast 80
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Brain

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Curbar Edge)

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