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16m.

Rockfax Description
The right arete of the wall has runners just below the crux, but that is a fair way off the ground. Finish as for The Right Unconquerable. Low in the grade. © Rockfax

FA. Ernie Marshall 1981.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes, Days of the Week, A Week in the Peak

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User Date Notes
jimlear 2 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The hard moves and good gear weren’t where I was expecting.
βeta?
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βeta: The hard moves and good gear weren’t where I was expecting.
Graham Hoey 16 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: It is possible to finish right of the direct finish to RU to make it more independent.
βeta?
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βeta: It is possible to finish right of the direct finish to RU to make it more independent.
Pythonist 31 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Fairly constant 5a/b climbing with just about adequate gear - though not really bold... Easy E2. However, this is the first route I think I've ever got to the top of, thinking it wasn't a good climb... The whole thing feels totally artificial, due to being far easier if you take a half-step left / right. It either needs to be described as an eliminate (no ledge/chimney) just on the arete's left-hand side, or be re-graded to include a sensible climb moving around the arete, and using the good high holds in the chimney (which can still be reached from a position in front of the arete)
βeta?
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βeta: Fairly constant 5a/b climbing with just about adequate gear - though not really bold... Easy E2. However, this is the first route I think I've ever got to the top of, thinking it wasn't a good climb... The whole thing feels totally artificial, due to being far easier if you take a half-step left / right. It either needs to be described as an eliminate (no ledge/chimney) just on the arete's left-hand side, or be re-graded to include a sensible climb moving around the arete, and using the good high holds in the chimney (which can still be reached from a position in front of the arete)
Si dH 11 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I 2nded this but thoguht the small friend placements, which I investigated quite abit, to eb utterly rubbish in the seocond break, meaning a big deckout if you come off the first hard moves (at about 2/3 height)
βeta?
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βeta: I 2nded this but thoguht the small friend placements, which I investigated quite abit, to eb utterly rubbish in the seocond break, meaning a big deckout if you come off the first hard moves (at about 2/3 height)
The old James turnbull 26 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: with small friends you can get quite alot of gear in, not really run out but all feels bit off balance making it only just(maybe) E2. hardest part felt like the top out as for right unconquerable! really enjoyed it 2 stars i reckon
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βeta: with small friends you can get quite alot of gear in, not really run out but all feels bit off balance making it only just(maybe) E2. hardest part felt like the top out as for right unconquerable! really enjoyed it 2 stars i reckon
Coel Hellier 18 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Crux well protected? I didn't trust the marginal cams and escaped into the chimney.
βeta?
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βeta: Crux well protected? I didn't trust the marginal cams and escaped into the chimney.
Mark S Davies 21 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: nice arete moves.shame about that awful finish!
βeta?
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βeta: nice arete moves.shame about that awful finish!

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 73
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 74
Votes cast 69
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Midshipman / Plain Sailing

Grade: E2 6a ***
(Birchen Edge)