Rockfax Description
The right arete has runners just below the crux, but that is a fair way off the ground. Finish as for The Right Unconquerable. © Rockfax
FA. Ernie Marshall 1981.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , Days of the Week , A Week in the Peak
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Graham Hoey | 16 Apr, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: It is possible to finish right of the direct finish to RU to make it more independent. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: It is possible to finish right of the direct finish to RU to make it more independent. |
||||
Pythonist | 31 Aug, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Fairly constant 5a/b climbing with just about adequate gear - though not really bold... Easy E2. However, this is the first route I think I've ever got to the top of, thinking it wasn't a good climb... The whole thing feels totally artificial, due to being far easier if you take a half-step left / right. It either needs to be described as an eliminate (no ledge/chimney) just on the arete's left-hand side, or be re-graded to include a sensible climb moving around the arete, and using the good high holds in the chimney (which can still be reached from a position in front of the arete) | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Fairly constant 5a/b climbing with just about adequate gear - though not really bold... Easy E2. However, this is the first route I think I've ever got to the top of, thinking it wasn't a good climb... The whole thing feels totally artificial, due to being far easier if you take a half-step left / right. It either needs to be described as an eliminate (no ledge/chimney) just on the arete's left-hand side, or be re-graded to include a sensible climb moving around the arete, and using the good high holds in the chimney (which can still be reached from a position in front of the arete) |
||||
Si dH | 11 Aug, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: I 2nded this but thoguht the small friend placements, which I investigated quite abit, to eb utterly rubbish in the seocond break, meaning a big deckout if you come off the first hard moves (at about 2/3 height) | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I 2nded this but thoguht the small friend placements, which I investigated quite abit, to eb utterly rubbish in the seocond break, meaning a big deckout if you come off the first hard moves (at about 2/3 height) |
||||
The old James turnbull | 26 Oct, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: with small friends you can get quite alot of gear in, not really run out but all feels bit off balance making it only just(maybe) E2. hardest part felt like the top out as for right unconquerable! really enjoyed it 2 stars i reckon | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: with small friends you can get quite alot of gear in, not really run out but all feels bit off balance making it only just(maybe) E2. hardest part felt like the top out as for right unconquerable! really enjoyed it 2 stars i reckon |
||||
Coel Hellier | 18 Apr, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Crux well protected? I didn't trust the marginal cams and escaped into the chimney. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Crux well protected? I didn't trust the marginal cams and escaped into the chimney. |
||||
The Pylon King | 21 May, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: nice arete moves.shame about that awful finish! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: nice arete moves.shame about that awful finish! |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: E2 5c ***
(Lawrencefield)