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14m.

Rockfax Description
Delicate and a bit bold but not E1. Climb the crack to a ledge then move left and balance up the ramp (tiny wires and cams out left). Finish up the chimney behind the huge perched block. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1950.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide), Pete's 150 Peak Extremes, Brown & Whillans Stanage, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Stanage Plantation, An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District, Eastern Grit Trip: The Best Of The Proposed Crags.

Feedback

User Date Notes
jing 26 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Perfectly safe.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Perfectly safe.
Mr Slippery 20 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: It's a fun route. I don't have enough experience to say if it is or isn't an E1, but I will say that it is a very different route for the shorter climber (I'm 5ft7). I climbed it with a mate who is 6ft. The difference in reach had a bigger impact on the difficulty than most routes. I guess this might be why some find it easier/harder than others.
 
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βeta: It's a fun route. I don't have enough experience to say if it is or isn't an E1, but I will say that it is a very different route for the shorter climber (I'm 5ft7). I climbed it with a mate who is 6ft. The difference in reach had a bigger impact on the difficulty than most routes. I guess this might be why some find it easier/harder than others.
Swirly 7 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: in addition to the cam placements at the start of the ramp theres an excellent green alien (friend 0 may fit even better) halfway up the ramp. Great route but never E1.
βeta?
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βeta: in addition to the cam placements at the start of the ramp theres an excellent green alien (friend 0 may fit even better) halfway up the ramp. Great route but never E1.
Andy Hobson 18 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: This should be HVS 4c at most and would be low in that grade. Anyone thinking it's E1 is in for a shock when they get on a real one!
βeta?
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βeta: This should be HVS 4c at most and would be low in that grade. Anyone thinking it's E1 is in for a shock when they get on a real one!
shaun walby 7 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Found the initial crack at tad tricky for my technique and the step up to gain the top crack/ramp tricky for my head. Enjoyable and friendly at the grade.
βeta?
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βeta: Found the initial crack at tad tricky for my technique and the step up to gain the top crack/ramp tricky for my head. Enjoyable and friendly at the grade.
el_tonto 15 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely little route. It's never an e1 if the 'not so hidden cam' holds (no.1 friend fits perfect if a bit shallow)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lovely little route. It's never an e1 if the 'not so hidden cam' holds (no.1 friend fits perfect if a bit shallow)
Gripped 12 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A nice crack to start, I didn't bother with the not so hidden cam placements above the main break but don't fluff up the top! Good feet.
βeta?
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βeta: A nice crack to start, I didn't bother with the not so hidden cam placements above the main break but don't fluff up the top! Good feet.
Danos 24 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: More like HVS than E1. The crux moves are all footwork and not that hard for 5a.
βeta?
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βeta: More like HVS than E1. The crux moves are all footwork and not that hard for 5a.
Swig 18 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I got 4 pieces in from the ledge below the groove (to the left under an overlap). Two tech friend numbers 1s were the main ones. The placements aren't 100 percent but hopefully they add up. Didn't bother after that.
βeta?
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βeta: I got 4 pieces in from the ledge below the groove (to the left under an overlap). Two tech friend numbers 1s were the main ones. The placements aren't 100 percent but hopefully they add up. Didn't bother after that.
Alun 23 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: My first E1 too, and with hindsight I reckon it was a good one to break into the grade, cos it's easy. If you have good footwork you will trot up the slab and not worry at all about lack of gear. I think I put a microwire in somewhere for psychological protection, probably wouldn't have held but the moves are easy. Not quite sure how it gets E1 actually - there are loads of other E1s much harder than this!
βeta?
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βeta: My first E1 too, and with hindsight I reckon it was a good one to break into the grade, cos it's easy. If you have good footwork you will trot up the slab and not worry at all about lack of gear. I think I put a microwire in somewhere for psychological protection, probably wouldn't have held but the moves are easy. Not quite sure how it gets E1 actually - there are loads of other E1s much harder than this!
TonyM 29 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Good route, but never E1 in a million years - only a tad harder than say High Neb Buttress. #1 Cam placement to left of ledge is fine and at most only marginally flared. This makes upper section adequately protected. There used to be a good small wire/RP in the groove, but this placement has vastly deteriorated.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good route, but never E1 in a million years - only a tad harder than say High Neb Buttress. #1 Cam placement to left of ledge is fine and at most only marginally flared. This makes upper section adequately protected. There used to be a good small wire/RP in the groove, but this placement has vastly deteriorated.
Monk 14 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I soloed this, but the gear looked reasonable to me. The cam placements look worn but ok and there are definitely a couple of small wires to be had too. Easy for E1 (and 5a) but a great route all the same. Just keep cool and commit.
βeta?
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βeta: I soloed this, but the gear looked reasonable to me. The cam placements look worn but ok and there are definitely a couple of small wires to be had too. Easy for E1 (and 5a) but a great route all the same. Just keep cool and commit.
Martin Rowe 27 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: This was my first E1 (but im not convinced as it felt too easy) The initial crack in my opinion is the tricky part but takes good jams. The slab itself with carefull balance shouldn't be a problem for anyone, certainly those who feel ready for E1.
βeta?
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βeta: This was my first E1 (but im not convinced as it felt too easy) The initial crack in my opinion is the tricky part but takes good jams. The slab itself with carefull balance shouldn't be a problem for anyone, certainly those who feel ready for E1.
Simon Caldwell 29 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The 'hidden' cam placements aren't really hidden and are bomb proof.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The 'hidden' cam placements aren't really hidden and are bomb proof.
Skyfall 7 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Could be a candidate for E0. A climb of two distinct halves. The initial crack is the strenuous bit and the top is essentially a slab. Not sure if it's even a 5a slab really but it is run out. The "small wires" in the ramp are rubbish but don't miss the hidden cam placements to the left of the ledge - these are not great but OK'ish if you are careful. HVS or E1 dependent on your attitude to run out slabs.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Could be a candidate for E0. A climb of two distinct halves. The initial crack is the strenuous bit and the top is essentially a slab. Not sure if it's even a 5a slab really but it is run out. The "small wires" in the ramp are rubbish but don't miss the hidden cam placements to the left of the ledge - these are not great but OK'ish if you are careful. HVS or E1 dependent on your attitude to run out slabs.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 280
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 265
Votes cast 240
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

BAW's Crawl

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Stanage Popular)