UKC

14m.

Rockfax Description
Climb a tricky thin crack to a rest at a flake below the roof. Traverse away right and finish up the side-wall. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown early 1950s.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Brown & Whillans Stanage , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Plantation , Severe Stanage , Stanage HVS Challenge , An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 2023

Feedback

User Date Notes
MGough 19 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Quite the matched crimp at the start of the traverse. Very committing, results may vary, some then drop low and can stretch for holds, alternatively continue up and become a crack gremlin with some hand jams you can't see because the overhang will be pushing your head down. There's a 'comfortable' rest for squatting overhang gremlins like me.
Show beta
βeta: Quite the matched crimp at the start of the traverse. Very committing, results may vary, some then drop low and can stretch for holds, alternatively continue up and become a crack gremlin with some hand jams you can't see because the overhang will be pushing your head down. There's a 'comfortable' rest for squatting overhang gremlins like me.
leon 15 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: the rest is good and rock fax's description well confused me!!! the moves out are reachy (apparently -i was ok but my second couldn't make the move). a quality route that ends very fast.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: the rest is good and rock fax's description well confused me!!! the moves out are reachy (apparently -i was ok but my second couldn't make the move). a quality route that ends very fast.
ericinbristol 6 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: A lovely route, over too quickly, perfectly protectable. The 'awkward thin crack' the guidebook refers to isn't awkward at all - if you sort your feet out, it produces a lovely move.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A lovely route, over too quickly, perfectly protectable. The 'awkward thin crack' the guidebook refers to isn't awkward at all - if you sort your feet out, it produces a lovely move.
Paz 30 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: A Joe Brown route for those who don't normally like them. Watch the rope drag.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A Joe Brown route for those who don't normally like them. Watch the rope drag.

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 113
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 112
Votes cast 106
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Surgeon's Saunter

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Stanage North)

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