Rockfax Description
Go up the flake-crack then shuffle up left to a ledge and climb the arete. Linking into Parasite is worth HVS 5a. © Rockfax
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Plantation , The Gritlist , Severe Stanage , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
User | Date | Notes | ||
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UKB Shark | 25 Mar |
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βeta: Reachy. Not many VS’s where I’ve used a mono! ? | βeta? | |
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βeta: Reachy. Not many VS’s where I’ve used a mono! ? |
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Shaun climbs 92 | 16 Mar |
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βeta: Great route would like to lead it at some point | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great route would like to lead it at some point |
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milanboez | 16 Aug, 2023 |
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βeta: Nice stopper move unless you're tall! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Nice stopper move unless you're tall! |
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John R Coller | 18 Jun, 2023 |
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βeta: Protection was good, felt a bit reachy for me at 5\' 10, would be hard route for anyone any shorter. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Protection was good, felt a bit reachy for me at 5' 10, would be hard route for anyone any shorter. |
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THE.WALRUS | 2 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: The crux move is probably worth 5a if you're less that 5'10 in height - with gear at your feet. I shuffled over to the right and places a cam in one of the cracks of Paradise Wall at about head height before making the move. Great route. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The crux move is probably worth 5a if you're less that 5'10 in height - with gear at your feet. I shuffled over to the right and places a cam in one of the cracks of Paradise Wall at about head height before making the move. Great route. |
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Graham Booth | 4 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: Not even close to a 5a move, bomber cams at feet, good side pull and all over very quickly, just don’t go too far left to the arête. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Not even close to a 5a move, bomber cams at feet, good side pull and all over very quickly, just don’t go too far left to the arête. |
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Wilbur | 17 Aug, 2006 |
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βeta: they're different styles. although i'm crap at jamming AND slabs so i'm sure i would find them both hard! | βeta? | |
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βeta: they're different styles. although i'm crap at jamming AND slabs so i'm sure i would find them both hard! |
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Joe Costello | 17 Aug, 2006 |
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βeta: If you think this is hard for vs, then I doubt you've tried the file or roof route! | βeta? | |
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βeta: If you think this is hard for vs, then I doubt you've tried the file or roof route! |
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Wilbur | 10 Jul, 2006 |
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βeta: sandbag for the short! | βeta? | |
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βeta: sandbag for the short! |
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Si dH | 15 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: Better and harder than paradise wall but still reasonably soft, but fair, at VS. Well-protected all the way. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Better and harder than paradise wall but still reasonably soft, but fair, at VS. Well-protected all the way. |
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Mr Pink 2 | 17 Mar, 2005 |
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βeta: I found this a piece of piss personally. (Tech 4b?). Must be a height thing (I'm 6'2") A very nice route though. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I found this a piece of piss personally. (Tech 4b?). Must be a height thing (I'm 6'2") A very nice route though. |
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shaun walby | 10 Oct, 2004 |
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βeta: Agree both above comments....if your short you might be thinking 5a at some point on this one. I took the line described/shown in PGE, well worthy of its grade (if you just starting out on VS do Paradise wall first) | βeta? | |
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βeta: Agree both above comments....if your short you might be thinking 5a at some point on this one. I took the line described/shown in PGE, well worthy of its grade (if you just starting out on VS do Paradise wall first) |
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Simon Caldwell | 21 Jul, 2003 |
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βeta: I wasn't prepared to shuffle left along the ledge in the hope that there moight be holds round the corner, so moved diagonally up and left from the top of the flake crack. Judging from the chalk marks/polish I was far from the first to go this way! Definitely a 5a move if you're not tall enough to reach the next break before you move. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I wasn't prepared to shuffle left along the ledge in the hope that there moight be holds round the corner, so moved diagonally up and left from the top of the flake crack. Judging from the chalk marks/polish I was far from the first to go this way! Definitely a 5a move if you're not tall enough to reach the next break before you move. |
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Dale Berry | 20 Jul, 2003 |
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βeta: A lot more worhty of the grade and in my opinoin your attention than Paradise Wall. Similar to Beech Butress @ Curbar, but finer and harder. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: A lot more worhty of the grade and in my opinoin your attention than Paradise Wall. Similar to Beech Butress @ Curbar, but finer and harder. |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Stanage Plantation)