UKC

14m.

Rockfax Description
Go up the flake-crack then shuffle up left to a ledge and climb the arete. Linking into Parasite is worth HVS 5a. © Rockfax

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Plantation , The Gritlist , Severe Stanage , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Peak list

Feedback

User Date Notes
THE.WALRUS 2 Aug Show βeta
βeta: The crux move is probably worth 5a if you're less that 5'10 in height - with gear at your feet. I shuffled over to the right and places a cam in one of the cracks of Paradise Wall at about head height before making the move. Great route.
βeta?
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βeta: The crux move is probably worth 5a if you're less that 5'10 in height - with gear at your feet. I shuffled over to the right and places a cam in one of the cracks of Paradise Wall at about head height before making the move. Great route.
Graham Booth 4 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Not even close to a 5a move, bomber cams at feet, good side pull and all over very quickly, just don’t go too far left to the arête.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not even close to a 5a move, bomber cams at feet, good side pull and all over very quickly, just don’t go too far left to the arête.
Wilbur 17 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: they're different styles. although i'm crap at jamming AND slabs so i'm sure i would find them both hard!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: they're different styles. although i'm crap at jamming AND slabs so i'm sure i would find them both hard!
Joe Costello 17 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: If you think this is hard for vs, then I doubt you've tried the file or roof route!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If you think this is hard for vs, then I doubt you've tried the file or roof route!
Wilbur 10 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: sandbag for the short!
βeta?
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βeta: sandbag for the short!
Si dH 15 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Better and harder than paradise wall but still reasonably soft, but fair, at VS. Well-protected all the way.
βeta?
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βeta: Better and harder than paradise wall but still reasonably soft, but fair, at VS. Well-protected all the way.
Mr Pink 2 17 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I found this a piece of piss personally. (Tech 4b?). Must be a height thing (I'm 6'2") A very nice route though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I found this a piece of piss personally. (Tech 4b?). Must be a height thing (I'm 6'2") A very nice route though.
shaun walby 10 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Agree both above comments....if your short you might be thinking 5a at some point on this one. I took the line described/shown in PGE, well worthy of its grade (if you just starting out on VS do Paradise wall first)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Agree both above comments....if your short you might be thinking 5a at some point on this one. I took the line described/shown in PGE, well worthy of its grade (if you just starting out on VS do Paradise wall first)
Simon Caldwell 21 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I wasn't prepared to shuffle left along the ledge in the hope that there moight be holds round the corner, so moved diagonally up and left from the top of the flake crack. Judging from the chalk marks/polish I was far from the first to go this way! Definitely a 5a move if you're not tall enough to reach the next break before you move.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I wasn't prepared to shuffle left along the ledge in the hope that there moight be holds round the corner, so moved diagonally up and left from the top of the flake crack. Judging from the chalk marks/polish I was far from the first to go this way! Definitely a 5a move if you're not tall enough to reach the next break before you move.
Dale Berry 20 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: A lot more worhty of the grade and in my opinoin your attention than Paradise Wall. Similar to Beech Butress @ Curbar, but finer and harder.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A lot more worhty of the grade and in my opinoin your attention than Paradise Wall. Similar to Beech Butress @ Curbar, but finer and harder.

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 267
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 255
Votes cast 238
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Wall End Slab

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Stanage Plantation)

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