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14m.

Rockfax Description
Up the flake-crack that starts 2m right of the arete, to its end. Shuffle up and left to a ledge then climb the arete. Connecting to Parasite is worth HVS 5a but is bit of an eliminate. © Rockfax

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Stanage 100 VD - VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Stanage Plantation, The Gritlist, Eastern Grit Trip: The Best Of The Proposed Crags.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Wilbur 17 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: they're different styles. although i'm crap at jamming AND slabs so i'm sure i would find them both hard!
βeta?
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βeta: they're different styles. although i'm crap at jamming AND slabs so i'm sure i would find them both hard!
Joe Costello 17 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: If you think this is hard for vs, then I doubt you've tried the file or roof route!
βeta?
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βeta: If you think this is hard for vs, then I doubt you've tried the file or roof route!
Wilbur 10 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: sandbag for the short!
βeta?
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βeta: sandbag for the short!
Si dH 15 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Better and harder than paradise wall but still reasonably soft, but fair, at VS. Well-protected all the way.
βeta?
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βeta: Better and harder than paradise wall but still reasonably soft, but fair, at VS. Well-protected all the way.
Ady Short 25 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I'm 5'7" so a short ass, I found a single finger pocket at full stretch which enabled me to make the move to the break from the ledge. Watch those pulleys tho. I found this easy to lead and agree the 4c technical move and VS grade as it was a one move route.
βeta?
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βeta: I'm 5'7" so a short ass, I found a single finger pocket at full stretch which enabled me to make the move to the break from the ledge. Watch those pulleys tho. I found this easy to lead and agree the 4c technical move and VS grade as it was a one move route.
Mr Pink 2 17 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I found this a piece of piss personally. (Tech 4b?). Must be a height thing (I'm 6'2") A very nice route though.
βeta?
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βeta: I found this a piece of piss personally. (Tech 4b?). Must be a height thing (I'm 6'2") A very nice route though.
shaun walby 10 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Agree both above comments....if your short you might be thinking 5a at some point on this one. I took the line described/shown in PGE, well worthy of its grade (if you just starting out on VS do Paradise wall first)
βeta?
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βeta: Agree both above comments....if your short you might be thinking 5a at some point on this one. I took the line described/shown in PGE, well worthy of its grade (if you just starting out on VS do Paradise wall first)
Simon Caldwell 21 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I wasn't prepared to shuffle left along the ledge in the hope that there moight be holds round the corner, so moved diagonally up and left from the top of the flake crack. Judging from the chalk marks/polish I was far from the first to go this way! Definitely a 5a move if you're not tall enough to reach the next break before you move.
βeta?
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βeta: I wasn't prepared to shuffle left along the ledge in the hope that there moight be holds round the corner, so moved diagonally up and left from the top of the flake crack. Judging from the chalk marks/polish I was far from the first to go this way! Definitely a 5a move if you're not tall enough to reach the next break before you move.
Dale Berry 20 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: A lot more worhty of the grade and in my opinoin your attention than Paradise Wall. Similar to Beech Butress @ Curbar, but finer and harder.
βeta?
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βeta: A lot more worhty of the grade and in my opinoin your attention than Paradise Wall. Similar to Beech Butress @ Curbar, but finer and harder.

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 258
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 248
Votes cast 231
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Gargoyle Flake

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Bamford Edge)