UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

Rockfax Description
The centre of the roof via a square-cut edge. © Rockfax

Ticklists

The Black Circuit - Stanage , Plantation sub 7as , Vladimir punterin , John Allen (gritstone) megamix , Peaks Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
ABark 4 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: The left to right traverse finishes up the blunt rib and very thin hollow flake at the right hand end - be careful with the flake. There's not really any need to pull hard on it anyway as the end of the problem is at an easy angle. I'd give the traverse with the rib finish hard V5 as well.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The left to right traverse finishes up the blunt rib and very thin hollow flake at the right hand end - be careful with the flake. There's not really any need to pull hard on it anyway as the end of the problem is at an easy angle. I'd give the traverse with the rib finish hard V5 as well.
ABark 4 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Great move to leave the rib and quite a gripping problem despite it's diminutive size. Extend the problem by starting at the left-hand end of the left to right traverse and pulling up into Right Spur - makes it even better.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great move to leave the rib and quite a gripping problem despite it's diminutive size. Extend the problem by starting at the left-hand end of the left to right traverse and pulling up into Right Spur - makes it even better.

Logged Ascents

145 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 53 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High f7A
Mid f7A
Low f7A
High f6C+
Mid f6C+
Low f6C+
High f6C
Mid f6C
Low f6C
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Soloed
Lead
Not Set
Redpoint
DNF
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Eyes to the Skies

Grade: f6C+ ***
(Stanton in the Woods)

Loading Notifications...